Please note: During our trip to Ireland, our priorities were hiking, the most beautiful scenery, pubs and live music. We also rented a car. You won’t find much in these posts about fine dining, shopping or the public transportation, though I’m confident there are great resources for these topics elsewhere online. I have also included some resources at the bottom if you’re planning a similar trip.
I have wanted to go to Ireland forever. No, I don’t have any familial ties, I just think it’s enchanting. The mossy cliffs, the baby sheep bouncing across pastures, the rolling valleys showcasing every shade of green the human eye has ever seen. A few years ago, Hank and I took the girls to a cabin in southern Indiana. One of the owners was from Ireland and I mentioned how a visit was on my bucket list. “It’s the closest thing there is to heaven on earth,” she said.
We decided we would never actually go unless we picked a date. This fall marks our 15th wedding anniversary and my 40th trip around the sun, so 2022 was the big winner. An acquaintance of Hank’s happened to mention that her and her husband had gone and had a great experience. She gave us the name of her travel agent (linked and listed below) and things started becoming official.
Then, on August 16, ten days before we were scheduled to head toward heaven, I started to feel … off. After more than two years of dodging the inevitable, I tested positive for COVID. Even more inconvenient, Hank followed in my footsteps on Friday, the 19th. That sassy little virus took us down! There’s definitely a 48-hour period during that week that I just don’t remember. We quarantined, we pushed fluids, we pulled out our laptops and we started planning out hikes. Because, gosh dang it, nothing … and I mean, nothing, was going to get in the way of the trip I’d been dreaming of for my entire adult life. Not Omicron. Not any of his punk little sibling strains. Nothing.
The day before we left, I finally got a negative test and Hank started to turn the corner. We got a pack of these breathable little buddies, had our youngest sit on our giant suitcases, zipped ‘em, tipped ‘em and got ready to head to Chicago.
Chicago to Dublin
Honestly, the hardest part of the flight to Dublin was navigating Chicago O’Hare International Airport. The lot we wanted was full, so we were directed to another parking garage, which we couldn’t find and knew would be more expensive. Absolutely everything was under construction. It’s just crazy there! Big airports like that remind me of hectic cities and send my anxiety into the rafters. The people watching is on point though. (Highlight: A young gal wearing a legit bra as a shirt, a la Seinfeld’s “The Bra-less Wonder”.)
I was really impressed with Aer Lingus®. Each passenger got a blanket, pillow and adorable little earbuds with clovers on them. I popped two regular strength Dramamine and turned on “And Just Like That …” We were a bit delayed taking off, so the pilot announced we would be making up for it in the air. They brought around a snack, and I was still awake. Another episode of Carrie, Miranda and Charlotte. Then a meal. I was still awake. Before I knew it, we were eating breakfast sandwiches and the pilot was getting the cabin ready for landing. I never slept. Neither did Hank.
Breakfast in Dublin
We left Chicago around 3 p.m. their time and landed in Dublin at 5 a.m. their time. The Saturday morning sun was piercing through the broad windows of the Dublin airport as we made our way through customs and to baggage claim. We picked up our Wi-Fi candy (portable Wi-Fi hotspot) on the lower level and went to get our rental car. This was the moment Hank had been dreading for months. He wouldn’t say it, but I could tell.
Shockingly, rental car places just give you the keys to a car and a little GPS screen and wish you all the best on your holiday. You know, the holiday you’re having in a country where everything from a vehicular standpoint is done entirely backwards. We forced our gigantic stuffed suitcases into the back seat and rear hatch – after we figured out how to open it – and climbed into the VW Polo. We spent a little time in that parking garage, as Hank tried to familiarize himself with the lights, the seat (initially pressing him up into the steering wheel), the buttons. She was a sweet little foreign girl. And she was fully covered in insurance and ours for the next ten days.
I did a quick search for the best breakfast in Dublin and found a place called Lemon Jelly Café with a thirst trap photo of a foamy latte. I punched it in and we got on the highway. Initially, it all felt a little wild. Sitting in the driver’s seat, but not driving. Seeing my husband adjust and respond in real time. At one point, I looked up and saw a spider hanging over his head. My instinct was to swing it at it like a savage killer. Hank couldn’t even look at what I was doing, he was so zoned in. But it was when we got off the highway that the real fun started.
We definitely drove in some circles, per the GPS. “Left to left,” Hank kept saying out loud as he rotated the steering wheel. We only made one major mistake though, when we turned onto a street with rails and realized no car was meant to be there. Would a train come barreling toward us? Who knew! What an adventure!
Eventually, we found a parking garage near where we believed Lemon Jelly to be and got out to walk. I got lemon crepes and sourdough toast, and Hank went for the traditional Irish breakfast, for the first and only time. The coffee lived up to the hype.
Time awake: 23 hours
Dublin to Brandon Hill
We left Dublin and headed toward Freaghana, County Kilkenny, and the trail head for the Brandon Hill summit walk, a suggestion we’d come across when we were sequestered and scrolling. The drive was just over two hours. Hank used AllTrails to find the best place to pick up the trail and we punched it into the GPS. When we initially exited the highway, Hank made a comment about how the roads were a little narrow. As we followed the prompts and the sparse signs for Brandon Hill, navigating our way to carpark A, deer park, the pavement kept shrinking, until we were down to a single lane. No shoulder. Branches and slumping vines battering the sides of the Polo.
“This can’t be right,” Hank said. And then a few minutes later, “I mean, this just can’t be right.”
This was our first taste of the bittersweet side of chasing down the best trails. Is a car coming down the mountain? Maybe! What a ride! When they come around the corner will they stop and back up or will we have to find a way? We’ll have to wait and see! The surprises are endless!
After the longest half mile of our lives, we came across a house. There were clothes on the line and vehicles everywhere. A gate was propped open just past the yard so we, hesitantly proceeded through. A few seconds later, Hank stopped.
He came back to the chorus. “This can’t be right.”
A car stopped behind the Polo and I ran back. “Hey! I’m sorry, but I think we’re lost. We’re trying to get to the trailhead for Brandon Hill.”
“Yup!” the woman in the passenger seat smiled. “This is just Ireland roads!”
OK, then. Giddy up!
We came to the carpark shortly after and changed into our hiking shoes. A few young families were standing around the map, strategizing; the dads smoking cigarettes in preparation. Brandon Hill is a loop, up a gravel road, through a shaded pine passing and then either straight up to the summit, or a more gradual pebble-packed path. To reach the top is to climb the highest mountain in Co. Kilkenny at 1,690 ft.
We opted for the direct path on the way up. The summit is covered in these purple plants I’ve spent a good amount of time Googling and have officially decided to list as furze and heather, with 70% confidence. Whatever the flowers are, they blanket the top of the mountain, and bees absolutely love them. A constant buzzing and my labored breaths were the only instruments in the orchestra as we trudged up to the large cross at the top.
“You’re almost there,” Hank kept taunting. We weren’t.
And then we were. The 360-degree view from the peak of Brandon Hill is breathtaking. The patchwork quilt of pastures, divided neatly by historic stonewalls and orderly bushes. The sand-hued fields of barley, large boulders peppered across the horizon. The sky was a brilliant royal blue, streaked in wispy clouds. After decades of dreaming about these views, lusting after the Wild Atlantic Way, I was here, standing on top of a mountain. And I cried.
Time awake: 29 hours
Brandon Hill to Kilkenny
We played chicken with a tractor on our drive back down from the trailhead. “I just drove a quarter mile in reverse on a one-lane mountainside on the wrong side of the car in Ireland,” Hank commented after finding a field to duck into so they could pass.
The roads eventually returned to two lanes as we made our way to Hotel Kilkenny. The first thing I noticed when we finally got to our room was that there was no air conditioning. (American girl problems.) It was so stifling as we unpacked and got situated. We both knew that if we gave in to the temptress covered in fresh sheets and pillows, we’d never leave the room, so we quickly showered and headed out for dinner.
“How do we get to the restaurants?” I asked a lady at the front desk.
“Oh, it’s easy,” she said. “Just turn right and walk until you see the castle.” Something you don’t hear every day.
The area around Kilkenny Castle is charming. Rows of brightly colored shops, art boutiques and restaurants punctuated with vibrant flower boxes are the perfect backdrop for pedestrians, coming and going, in and out. Hank remembered he needed distilled water for his CPAP, so we ducked into a pharmacy before dinner.
First, I must say that the individuals who work in pharmacies in Ireland are the most dedicated, caring people. They ask questions and they genuinely want to heal what’s ailing you. This wasn’t your typical impersonal Walgreens or CVS interaction. Upon our request, the pharmacist came back with a jug of distilled water and rang it up. It was $17. Hank looked at her, blinking. Turns out, distilled water is a hot commodity in Ireland and comes with the price tag to prove it. Hank referred to it as his “liquid gold” the rest of the trip.
We came over the bridge and saw Matt the Millers Bar & Restaurant and remembered the recommendation from a friend. We sat on the second level and ordered drinks immediately, an Outcider for me, Smithwicks for Hank. Now, let me offer you an insider tip that my husband got too late into our trip. One that will make this whole blog post worth your time. The “h” and “w” in Smithwicks are silent. So, as a kind-hearted bartender finally told Hank on the seventh night of our epic pub crawl, it is pronounced “Smiticks” or “Smih-dicks.” You’re welcome. I got fish and chips (the first of many) and my date rolled the dice on a chicken dish with black pudding. Everything was good, but honestly, we were too punchy to really absorb much.
Our sweet waitress invited us to come back for the DJ. “Where you’re sitting will be the dance floor and he’ll go till 3 a.m.” We smiled graciously, knowing we’d already be asleep back at Hotel Kilkenny by the time his fingers touched the knobs. She also told us about her three jobs and the housing crisis in Ireland. How expensive things had become and how much people were struggling. This theme in conversation, along with the breaded haddock, would become a trend for our trip.
Hen parties came in, sloppy and sublime. We congratulated a bride-to-be and we gushed a bit over each other the way buzzed up women do. Everyone wished us the best holiday, and we cashed out so we could go cash out.
We had to stop by Kilkenny Castle since we passed it on our walk back to the hotel. Hank was a history major, so the thought of moats and windows placed strategically for shooting bows, and dungeons and medieval lore made him light up like a Christmas tree.
We were zombies by the time the elevator opened to our floor. I fell into bed and immediately started sweating. I didn’t get much sleep, but we had made it.
Total wake time: 35 hours
Quick reference details for those planning a trip to Ireland
Travel agent – We worked with Maria Lieb at Discovering Ireland. We were given her name by an acquaintance who took a very similar trip to ours. Maria helped us narrow down locations, the duration of our stay in each town, selected and booked all of our hotel and inn rooms, reserved our car and insurance, and provided travel guides. You can reach her by emailing maria@discoveringireland.com.
Transportation – We opted to rent a car so we had flexibility each day. We did the full insurance, including tires, and rented the GPS navigation. In Ireland, compared to the United States, the steering wheel is on the other side of the car, and they drive on the other side of the road, which can be confusing, but you catch on. Also, be prepared … some of the roads are very narrow.
Dates of our trip – While most people go to Ireland in June, July and early August, we were there August 26 – September 5, in an effort to still get decent weather but avoid some of the crowds.
Weather – We were spoiled with the weather while we were there! Temperatures were typically mid- to low-70s during the day and the 60s at night. We only had rain two days.
Money – We primarily used our credit card, which was very easy. They will often ask you if you want to pay in euros or dollars. It’s best to select euros. We also used local ATM machines to get cash, which came in handy for cabs and snacks. In our experience, ATMs were better than exchanging currency at the airport.
Things I packed and didn’t need –
- Hair straightener (couldn’t use in any of the outlets)
- Jewelry (wore a necklace one night)
- Jeans (heavy and unnecessary)
- Big suitcase (I’ll pack smarter next time)
- Makeup (nobody cared, and I barely used it)
Things I didn’t pack that I wish I had –
- More of these functional pants from REI – (I also liked these)
- My TEVA sandals (loving these right now)
- Hiking poles
Things I was so glad I packed –
- Versatile weatherproof pants (linked above)
- Hats (I rarely did my hair)
- A buff for my neck or wrist
- Good hiking boots and trail shoes (I took these and loved them)
- A light backpack for hiking
- Crossbody purse (or hip bag) for evenings and days out
- Sunglasses
- Raincoat
- Umbrella
- Moisture-wicking layers (tanks, ts and long-sleeve)
- Small bottles of hand sanitizer
- Hair ties (my hair was in a pony or braided most days)
- Good socks
- Dramamine (If you get motion sickness, this is life in Ireland)
- Notes app or a journal
- Fitbit charger (we averaged 22k steps a day)
- Phone charger
- A mobile hotspot (we rented a wifi candy and picked ours up at the Dublin airport)
- GPS
The flight – We flew out of Chicago, which is about two hours from our home. The hardest part was finding a place to park at O’Hare! We got there about three hours early and had plenty of time. The flight was direct to Dublin and took around seven hours – give or take – both ways. I thought Aer Lingus did a tremendous job of keeping everyone fed, comfortable and happy. Take a little something to help you sleep and you’ll be there before you know it! Our experience at the Dublin airport was incredibly positive. Quick and painless!
No Comments