Please note: During our trip to Ireland, our priorities were hiking, the most beautiful scenery, pubs and live music. We also rented a car. You won’t find much in these posts about fine dining, shopping or the public transportation, though I’m confident there are great resources for these topics elsewhere online. I have also included some resources at the bottom if you’re planning a similar trip.
I woke up and felt like a new woman. It was the type of sleep where you don’t remember your dreams and you’re pretty certain you’re in the same position you fell asleep in. The Baltimore, Co. Cork air agreed with me. We went down to the restaurant for breakfast and slid into a cozy corner booth. Our table already had a tiered tower dressed in freshly baked breads and pastries, yogurt, cheese and homemade jam. I also ordered scrambled eggs and smoked salmon from the kitchen. The coffee was strong and welcome.
Based on my morning Google search, I discovered that whale watching is big in Baltimore. It was another gorgeous day, with sunny skies and a perfect breeze, so we decided to dress for an afternoon on the open ocean and head down to the harbor, which was wallpapered in posters for daily excursions. The first place we called wasn’t going out. The second didn’t have enough people. And the third said the swells were too dangerous.
There was a handful of people gathering around the area where the ferry came in. We learned that it was heading to Sherkin Island, and decided to hop on board, with no idea what was actually on Sherkin Island. Sometimes being a follower really pays off. (Please don’t tell my children I said that.)
Known to locals as The Island of the Arts, Sherkin is approximately three miles long and boasts a population of roughly 100 people. Also of note, it ended up being one of my absolute favorite places we went. It was a simple day, rich with simple pleasures, lots of steps and good conversation, and beauty everywhere you looked.
When you get off the ferry, which basically just drives right up onto shore, you’re greeted by a mossy, stone and shell-covered beach. Everyone else just took off, like they knew exactly where they were going. But we, of course, had no agenda. Hank took a call, so I putzed around the beach for a while, picking up shells and smooth stones to take home to the girls. I loved all of the little limpets, or “boy nipples” as Hank called them, stuck to the sides of rocks.
We walked past the old friary and came to a fork in the road. A farmer, without much time for chitchat, told us to walk toward the beach and the café just beyond it, so we headed that way, down the one-lane road along a stone wall.
The first thing we came upon was the island library, where Sherkin Island resident and artist, Tina Reed, was hosting an exhibit. Her work was vibrant and textured and stunning. The walls were adorned with several pieces painted in Killarney (our next stop on our trip) and a number overlooking the ocean from the Sherkin Island shores. Tina, whose husband gives kayak tours around the island, agreed we should keep heading toward the beach and find the charming café by the water.
Tucked into hedges, tied to gates and secured into stonewalls, colorful tags with haiku poems are scattered all over the island. This is the handy work of The Sherkin Island Haiku Group, who has been meeting ever since 2013. There were too many to read them all, but here are two of my favorites:
When people said, “the beach,” it sounds silly, but we weren’t exactly sure what we were looking for. There were several areas that looked like they held varying depths of water throughout the year, and people could, technically, go sit next to these pools. And they were pretty. We kept walking, past lazy island dogs, rolling pastures and properties likely passed down through generations. And then, we came to the beach, and there was no mistaking it. When I tell you it was one of the most breath-taking sights I’ve ever seen, it’s an insulting understatement. I’ve never been privy to beauty like the points on this planet where the Atlantic meets the fractured fringe of Ireland and its supplementary islands. There’s just no describing it. You have to live it.
These were the first of several cliffs we would see during our time in the country, and you know what they say about your first time … You never forget it.
We walked straight down the rippled sand toward the water, like the tide was pulling us to it. It was unlike any beach I’d been on before. A football field of patterned sand sandwiched between dark, tiered cliffs, with a mountain out in the distance. I took a handful of videos but, when I watched them back later, I succumb to the reality that they just couldn’t convey the view.
After a substantial period of standing in awe, we went back up the sand to the road. In just a few steps, we came upon a second beach and a cliff overlook. There were two tents in the grass near the road, and I joked about the gamble of stepping out for a midnight potty break in this precarious spot near the cliff. But what an amazing place to have your morning coffee.
Tummy’s rumbling, we continued on to grab a bite at the café we’d heard so much about. Sherkin North Shore, located at the most southern point of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, is a center offering lodging, meals and a creative space for group meetings and trainings. On the Monday we stopped by, the door was open, but no one was home.
We retraced our steps and, when we got back to the fork where we’d started, we went the other way and found The Jolly Roger. You could just smell the history in this dim pub. Short stools that didn’t even reach my knees scattered around sticky tables. Everything decked in a warm, blood red palette. We grabbed a pair of ham and cheese toasties, a Bulmer’s for me and beer for Hank and pulled a set of taller stools up to a barrel on the terrace, with the water in the distance. We let the wear of the walk soak in, talking about life and our kids, with red cheeks and the sun now burning our necks. It was here that Hank wrote his own haiku.
Sherkin Island treat.
Blisters on both of my feet.
Delicious toastie.
Around 4 o’clock, we caught the ferry back to Baltimore and made the game day decision to do the short hike to Baltimore Beacon. The landmark is a cone-shaped “lighthouse” that actually doesn’t light up at all. Rather, it’s painted white as a warning for ships too close to the cliffs.
According to the website Atlas Obscura, “The beacon was constructed after the Irish Rebellion of 1798 at the orders of the British government. It was part of a whole system of lighthouses that peppered Ireland’s shores to form a coastal warning system.
The original lighthouse eventually fell into disrepair, so this current, conical version replaced it in the late 1840s. It’s become a beloved symbol of Baltimore, a small fishing village in County Cork. Locals call the weirdly shaped tower ‘Lot’s Wife,’ after the Biblical woman who was turned into a pillar of salt. Walking around the beacon rewards visitors with stunning views of both the green landscape and rolling sea.” So, there ya go.
It was 3.3 km from the Baltimore Pier to the beacon, and I can tell you, it was worth every step. Every day, we would say, it can’t get any prettier than this. And then, inevitably, it would. There were wildflowers everywhere, little pops of yellow and purple. When we got to the top, I was gob smacked. Across the way, you could see the cliffs on the outer perimeter of Sherkin Island. Look down, and you see that you are also perched on top of a cliff, with water that’s the most lovely, indescribable shade of blue flooding the space between the two.
I Facetimed my mom, who was going through some things at home, and shared the view with her, hoping it would make her smile. What’s amazing is, I don’t like heights. I have nightmares, often, right before I drift off to sleep, where I am falling, or one of my kids is falling. But there, I sat right on the edge of that cliff and felt more alive and less afraid than I ever have. I closed my eyes and listened to the waves and the birds. I felt the sun on my eyelids. I was so at peace.
I smiled the rest of the way back down. When we reached town, we grabbed a table in The Square overlooking the harbor and got menus from La Jolie Brise. We both got pizza and split some chips (French fries). Of course, more cider and beer. I will tell you that this meal did not blow me away, but the view as the sun set out over the water was everything.
A table of girlfriends were in my eye line, and I couldn’t help watching them. They reminded me of me and my friends at that age. Some things are universal, like the way the women in your life will always listen, get excited for you and laugh at the tough bits (particularly those related to the men in your life).
We split a perfect warm apple tart before calling it a night and I felt so full of joy as we made the walk back up the slanted streets to Rolf’s.
Quick reference details for those planning a trip to Ireland
Travel agent – We worked with Maria Lieb at Discovering Ireland. We were given her name by an acquaintance who took a very similar trip to ours. Maria helped us narrow down locations, the duration of our stay in each town, selected and booked all of our hotel and inn rooms, reserved our car and insurance, and provided travel guides. You can reach her by emailing maria@discoveringireland.com.
Transportation – We opted to rent a car so we had flexibility each day. We did the full insurance, including tires, and rented the GPS navigation. In Ireland, compared to the United States, the steering wheel is on the other side of the car, and they drive on the other side of the road, which can be confusing, but you catch on. Also, be prepared … some of the roads are very narrow.
Dates of our trip – While most people go to Ireland in June, July and early August, we were there August 26 – September 5, in an effort to still get decent weather but avoid some of the crowds.
Weather – We were spoiled with the weather while we were there! Temperatures were typically mid- to low-70s during the day and the 60s at night. We only had rain two days.
Money – We primarily used our credit card, which was very easy. They will often ask you if you want to pay in euros or dollars. It’s best to select euros. We also used local ATM machines to get cash, which came in handy for cabs and snacks. In our experience, ATMs were better than exchanging currency at the airport.
Things I packed and didn’t need –
- Hair straightener (couldn’t use in any of the outlets)
- Jewelry (wore a necklace one night)
- Jeans (heavy and unnecessary)
- Big suitcase (I’ll pack smarter next time)
- Makeup (nobody cared, and I barely used it)
Things I didn’t pack that I wish I had –
- More of these functional pants from REI – (I also liked these)
- My TEVA sandals (loving these right now)
- Hiking poles
Things I was so glad I packed –
- Versatile weatherproof pants (linked above)
- Hats (I rarely did my hair)
- A buff for my neck or wrist
- Good hiking boots and trail shoes (I took these and loved them)
- A light backpack for hiking
- Crossbody purse (or hip bag) for evenings and days out
- Sunglasses
- Raincoat
- Umbrella
- Moisture-wicking layers (tanks, ts and long-sleeve)
- Small bottles of hand sanitizer
- Hair ties (my hair was in a pony or braided most days)
- Good socks
- Dramamine (If you get motion sickness, this is life in Ireland)
- Notes app or a journal
- Fitbit charger (we averaged 22k steps a day)
- Phone charger
- A mobile hotspot (we rented a wifi candy and picked ours up at the Dublin airport)
- GPS
The flight – We flew out of Chicago, which is about two hours from our home. The hardest part was finding a place to park at O’Hare! We got there about three hours early and had plenty of time. The flight was direct to Dublin and took around seven hours – give or take – both ways. I thought Aer Lingus did a tremendous job of keeping everyone fed, comfortable and happy. Take a little something to help you sleep and you’ll be there before you know it! Our experience at the Dublin airport was incredibly positive. Quick and painless!
1 Comment
W O W!!! stunning scenery!