October 2022

Please note: During our trip to Ireland, our priorities were hiking, the most beautiful scenery, pubs and live music. We also rented a car. You won’t find much in these posts about fine dining, shopping or the public transportation, though I’m confident there are great resources for these topics elsewhere online. I have also included some resources at the bottom if you’re planning a similar trip.

I fell asleep and woke up around 1 a.m. Ireland time to Hank trying to talk one of the kids off the ledge back home. I consoled her a bit and tried to fall back asleep. Our room was warm and the unrest an ocean away was weighing on me. It was hard to get comfortable.  

We had breakfast at the inn again, a delicious Belgian waffle for me dressed to perfection in powdered sugar. Then it was time to pack up and head out. Our next official stop was Galway, which was bittersweet since it was our last destination before circling back to Dublin, the bookend to our dream vacation.  

From the time we started having serious discussions about Ireland, I began telling people we were going to Dingle. My boss mentioned it to me years ago and, I don’t know, I just loved to say it. Up until the day we left Indiana, I declared to all who would listen that we were going to Dingle, even though we had confirmation emails for the entire trip and none of them mentioned Dingle. Even though I couldn’t point Dingle out on a map. Even though the only thing I really knew about Dingle was that there was a place there that made sea salt ice cream. Even still, we were going to Dingle. So, on our way to Galway, we decided to actually go to Dingle.

The drive into the town is phenomenal. You’ve got your wildflowers, you’ve got your verdant patchwork valleys, you’ve got your roadways that snake alongside cliffs over cobalt blue water. It was a visual feast of the country’s scenic staples.

We parked by the harbor, which was under construction, but still cool. I’d done some Instagram searching and seen images of Dunquin Pier, which I assumed was there by the harbor. A woman sitting on a bench noticed we looked like lost little Hoosiers and asked if we wanted a picture. We thanked her kindly.

“Do you happen to know where Dunquin Pier is?” I asked.

As was the case with nearly every single Irishman and woman we met, she was a wealth of recommendations. She suggested we take Slea Head Drive, which looped out to Dunquin Pier and back around, with cute little cafes and all the views. Turns out, she was also from The States. “I came to visit Ireland six years ago,” she said, “and that was it! Now I split my time between my home in Colorado and here.” Talk about having each foot on a fresh slab of paradise! It reminded me of my friend, Kim, and her recent move to Portugal. Bravery is carving out the life of your dreams.

Since we were there, we walked around the town a bit. It was charming, with the colorful shops and cafes we’d come to expect, and a towering cathedral. We shipped some gifts home and putzed around.

Then we were onto the main event for the day – Dunquin Pier. I know I say every day was my favorite day, and every hike was special, but as far as views go, Dunquin Pier is in my top two for our entire visit. First of all, the drive there felt like getting dropped into a postcard. Perfect army and spring green camouflage pastures, the sun beaming down over the swaying grasses, peppy poppies peppered across the fields … and then you see the ocean.

As you approach, the mountains and pointed peaks present in the distance, erupting from the tranquil blue water beneath them. The closer you get, the more the indescribable beauty of the Wild Atlantic Way reveals itself. The closest thing to heaven on earth.

The western end of Slea Head is basically the Hollywood of Ireland. You probably know it. I might be one of three people on this planet who hasn’t seen Star Wars, but for those who covet the films, the scenery here should be familiar. It served as Luke Skywalker’s bachelor pad … or something like that. Don’t quote me. In addition to appearing in a galaxy far, far away, this is where they filmed the movie Far and Away, as well as Ryan’s Daughter.

To take it all in from above, I can only describe it as otherworldly. It was like nothing I’d seen before. I was transfixed by the tint of the water and the protruding natural pyramids, both close by and on the horizon.

We parked and walked down toward the path. The thing about cliffs is, you don’t know what’s below until you get right up to the edge. As I peered down over the grassy ledge, the view stole the air right out of my lungs. I sat down as close as I could without scaring myself and Facetimed my sister. Some sights are just too much to keep to yourself. If I’ve said it once, I’ve said it on here a thousand times, I can describe the cliffs of Ireland with every combination of adjectives there is, but you can’t understand until you’re perched on top of a worn ridge of earth, covered in beautiful moss and grasses, with the white seagulls swooping against the slate backdrop. Water crashing at the base. It is pure nirvana.

We took the winding path down by the shoreline. There was this pocket of light turquoise water with a single boat floating in it. Like it was staged to be September in an upcoming wall calendar.

We got brave and scampered down to some rocks below. I mean how often can you say you played at the base of a cliff in Ireland? The tide was down, and the bed of smooth stones were lovely hues of pink, blue, green and gray. I stepped into some deep ocean floor mush and fell. Hank was collecting Dunquin keepsakes for the kids and barely noticed.

I could have stayed there by that cliff with my husband forever. It was like the day we stepped into the ocean. Ireland brought me back to life, as dramatic as that reads. It helped me remember that adventure and exploring are the embers that fuel my passion for life. The air felt different. The sun was warmer. Everything sparked a sense of awe and I realized how long it had been since I’d stood in awe of anything. I love that feeling.  

How long is long enough to soak in something so magnanimous? What is the time limit on admiring Mother Nature’s masterpieces? When is it committed to memory? Imprinted on your brain and your heart? I don’t know if there’s ever enough time.

But we were hungry.

We climbed up from the cliff and drove on to Kruger’s Bar. I ordered a Carlsberg and goat cheese bruschetta drizzled in balsamic that checked every box. We sat outside with the jagged rocks out over the hillside. Sheep were talking and tempting me just over the fence. I could see why Luke Skywalker chose the area. Very serene and zen-inducing.

We dropped our bags at Harbour Hotel Galway around dinnertime and I gasped. Air conditioning! We had actual cool air blowing down from a heavenly box above the bed. I instantly loved this place.

It was just a short walk to town. I adore the ambiance in Irish cities at night. Flags draped between colorful buildings. Live music at every intersection. It’s so vibrant, and Galway was perhaps the liveliest of our stops yet.

We ducked into The Kings Head for dinner. I had the Seafood Chowder and Lobster and Chips, which was work! I hadn’t cracked into a crustacean in quite some time, and it showed. Hank was taken by the building’s history, which dated back to the 13^th century. Of particular interest to my History major husband was the fireplace, which was built in 1612.

According to their website, “For over 400 years the fireplace in the Mayor’s House (Front Bar) has kept generations of Galwegians warm. The fireplace is dated 1612 and features an ornate ‘Marriage Stone’ which carries the Coats of Arms of the Bodkin, Martin and Ffrench families. History aside it’s a great place to lean against while enjoying a pint!” Which people were doing, in 2022, while we were there.

Once we were done eating, we went into the adjoining bar where a band was getting the crowd hype with some trad. I have to hand it to them. They were wearing wool sweaters in a packed bar with no air just thrashing their instruments. I would have needed an IV, at the very least. Listening to trad is an experience. There’s an energy that builds. First people clap, then the clapping gets faster, then there’s some hooting and eventually dancing. The crowd, as a cohesive ball of vitality, reaches a crescendo that just carries you away. When the song’s over, the balloon deflates, and it starts all over again. It’s so contagious.

We chatted on the short walk back to the hotel, passing people with half-gone lagers and pilsners in varying copper tones, in deep discussion. It was another beautiful night and I couldn’t wait to turn the air down, snuggle up and do it all again.  

Quick reference details for those planning a trip to Ireland

Travel agent – We worked with Maria Lieb at Discovering Ireland. We were given her name by an acquaintance who took a very similar trip to ours. Maria helped us narrow down locations, the duration of our stay in each town, selected and booked all of our hotel and inn rooms, reserved our car and insurance, and provided travel guides. You can reach her by emailing maria@discoveringireland.com. 

Transportation – We opted to rent a car so we had flexibility each day. We did the full insurance, including tires, and rented the GPS navigation. In Ireland, compared to the United States, the steering wheel is on the other side of the car, and they drive on the other side of the road, which can be confusing, but you catch on. Also, be prepared … some of the roads are very narrow.

Dates of our trip – While most people go to Ireland in June, July and early August, we were there August 26 – September 5, in an effort to still get decent weather but avoid some of the crowds.

Weather – We were spoiled with the weather while we were there! Temperatures were typically mid- to low-70s during the day and the 60s at night. We only had rain two days.

Money – We primarily used our credit card, which was very easy. They will often ask you if you want to pay in euros or dollars. It’s best to select euros. We also used local ATM machines to get cash, which came in handy for cabs and snacks. In our experience, ATMs were better than exchanging currency at the airport.

Things I packed and didn’t need –

• Hair straightener (couldn’t use in any of the outlets)
• Jewelry (wore a necklace one night)
• Jeans (heavy and unnecessary)
• Big suitcase (I’ll pack smarter next time)
• Makeup (nobody cared, and I barely used it)

Things I didn’t pack that I wish I had –

• More of these functional pants from REI – (I also liked these)
• My TEVA sandals (loving these right now)
• Hiking poles

Things I was so glad I packed –

• Versatile weatherproof pants (linked above)
• Hats (I rarely did my hair)
• A buff for my neck or wrist
• Good hiking boots and trail shoes (I took these and loved them)
• A light backpack for hiking
• Crossbody purse (or hip bag) for evenings and days out
• Sunglasses
• Raincoat
• Umbrella
• Moisture-wicking layers (tanks, ts and long-sleeve)
• Small bottles of hand sanitizer
• Hair ties (my hair was in a pony or braided most days)
• Good socks
• Dramamine (If you get motion sickness, this is life in Ireland)
• Notes app or a journal
• Fitbit charger (we averaged 22k steps a day)
• Phone charger
• A mobile hotspot (we rented a wifi candy and picked ours up at the Dublin airport)
• GPS

The flight – We flew out of Chicago, which is about two hours from our home. The hardest part was finding a place to park at O’Hare! We got there about three hours early and had plenty of time. The flight was direct to Dublin and took around seven hours – give or take – both ways. I thought Aer Lingus did a tremendous job of keeping everyone fed, comfortable and happy. Take a little something to help you sleep and you’ll be there before you know it! Our experience at the Dublin airport was incredibly positive. Quick and painless! 

Please note: During our trip to Ireland, our priorities were hiking, the most beautiful scenery, pubs and live music. We also rented a car. You won’t find much in these posts about fine dining, shopping or the public transportation, though I’m confident there are great resources for these topics elsewhere online. I have also included some resources at the bottom if you’re planning a similar trip.

I had a rough night of sleep. My body was starting to reject the influx of cider and late nights. We had breakfast at the inn and went back to the room to start strategizing the day’s plan. I have to hand it to Hank. I’m a great traveler in the sense that I’m typically up for anything. But I’m total shit when it comes to logistics. Completely dead weight, in the navigation department.  

After consulting his AllTrails, Hank landed on a hike to the summit of Torc Mountain, inside Killarney National Park. It was another gift of a day, low 70s and sunny as a Trader Joe’s checkout gal. We started at the lower carpark so we could see the Torc Waterfall. The parking area was packed with tourist groups, joking with their guides and busmates.

There’s something so mesmerizing about waterfalls. The sound of the water rushing and crashing, the white, tattered ribbon weaving around in rambunctious rapids, the lush green filling cracks and spreading out over bedrock and boulders. Brave souls were climbing the falls for the perfect picture, but we didn’t linger long. We had a mountain to meet.

We came to a cement bridge over Owengarriff River with a smaller waterfall and called the girls to check in for the morning. They were just getting ready to leave for school and couldn’t hear us well over the surprisingly boisterous cascade beneath us. 

After crossing the bridge, we went left and followed Old Kenmare Road to Torc Summit Path. (Hikers’ note: You can shorten the route and bypass the falls by parking at the Upper Torc carpark if waterfalls aren’t your thang.)

The trailhead to the summit of Torc Mountain was across from a picturesque stone-speckled stream. The path, which winds back and forth along the side of the mountain, varies between large, mostly flat rocks and railroad ties cleverly covered in chicken wire to minimize slipping. I sent up some gratitude for that fencing on more than one occasion during both our ascent and descent.

Each turn offered a different view of the ghostly blue mountains in the distance, the undulating grassy hillsides peppered with the prettiest yellow and purple wildflowers, and crystal pools on the horizon. It was both a demonstration in cardiovascular endurance and a scenic slideshow, two of my favorite things … and then we reached the top.

The summit of Torc Mountain is at an elevation of 1,755 feet (though Hank had data to suggest it was closer to 1,900), and it’s only when you reach the top that you get the 360-degree view of the county’s splendor. It was every lyric from every song that ever made me cherish this planet. We met a lovely local woman who pointed out landmarks like the lake where Killarnieans like to swim, the tallest peak in the park and our hotel. People in Ireland have a pride in and love for their land. It was evident throughout the trip, and it was evident on the top of Torc Mountain.

The entire route was 5.75 miles, and took us about three hours, from carpark to carpark. If you don’t mind covering some ground, it’s a perfect place to spend an afternoon and offers a bit of everything in the landscape department – mossy, fairy woodlands, roaring falls, rolling mountainsides and babbling brooks. Asking for much more would just be greedy!

Red-cheeked and weak-legged, we went back into town to refill our tummy tanks. When we pulled into a paid lot, a sweet woman gave us her parking ticket with an hour left on it. (Have I mentioned how amazing the people were?) We popped over to K-Town Bar and Grill and shared an order of loaded fries. When something is really indulgent, we like to say, “It’s so dirty!” which basically means it’s sinful and satisfying in all the best ways. Those fries were so dirty and damn delicious.

We went to the hotel and showered before driving back to town for the night. On our way, we saw a group of people walking somberly down the street. A funeral procession came right by us. The deceased must have been a coach or soccer enthusiast, because the men (and one woman) walking in two lines in front of the hearse were wearing jerseys.

We parked in the same lot across from our afternoon snack, which is free after 6:30 p.m. We strolled along the streets browsing menus and keepsakes, and eventually ended up at Bricín Restaurant and Irish Craft Shop on High Street for dinner. The fare is generally traditional Irish dishes, and I can tell you they’ve got them figured out. This was another one of my favorite meals on our trip. I had the pan-fried fish special and grilled veggies. We split Deep Fried Camembert at the front and a pavlova at the end, which neither of us had had before. It was like a giant marshmallow sent from heaven. I don’t think it’s on their regular lineup, so the angels were on our side that night.

After checking out the craft shop, we walked along High Street until we heard music. It was the pipes of Donal Lucey that eventually called us into the blue neon glow of Corkerys Sports Bar. Donal did a lot of Ed Sheeran, some Harry Styles and Coldplay. He used a looping station with foot pedals to repeat different sections of the song, which is so entertaining to watch.

One of the many things I love about the bar culture in Ireland is how animated the guys get. They were belting out love songs at the tops of their lungs and hollering ballad requests. Donal did an amazing job taking it all in, throwing in some friendly banter and accepting compliments without breaking stride or missing a pedal push. A man would come back from the bathroom, located in a hallway beside the stage, and, still zipping his fly, give the artist a thumb’s up. “You’re doing great, lad.” The country is a [sometimes sloppy] celebration of beer and music and joy and I was there for all of it.

I thought people were staring at us until I realized there was a giant flat screen beside our table. The Liverpool home soccer game was on and believe me when I tell you that, when they scored the winning goal, that small pub just about came up off the ground.

As 11 p.m. approached, the bartender started encouraging everyone to go down to The Grand, the bar we’d been at the night before. We had a key to the front door of the hotel and decided to call it a night. We walked to the car, past men having deep conversations over smokes on the patio of a closed restaurant, and couples loose lipped from Guiness and Stonewell. I liked the city at night. I never felt unsafe. There was a slight chill in the dark and the sweet, sticky remnants of memories being made everywhere you looked. Killarney had been good to us.  

Quick reference details for those planning a trip to Ireland

Travel agent – We worked with Maria Lieb at Discovering Ireland. We were given her name by an acquaintance who took a very similar trip to ours. Maria helped us narrow down locations, the duration of our stay in each town, selected and booked all of our hotel and inn rooms, reserved our car and insurance, and provided travel guides. You can reach her by emailing maria@discoveringireland.com. 

Transportation – We opted to rent a car so we had flexibility each day. We did the full insurance, including tires, and rented the GPS navigation. In Ireland, compared to the United States, the steering wheel is on the other side of the car, and they drive on the other side of the road, which can be confusing, but you catch on. Also, be prepared … some of the roads are very narrow.

Dates of our trip – While most people go to Ireland in June, July and early August, we were there August 26 – September 5, in an effort to still get decent weather but avoid some of the crowds.

Weather – We were spoiled with the weather while we were there! Temperatures were typically mid- to low-70s during the day and the 60s at night. We only had rain two days.

Money – We primarily used our credit card, which was very easy. They will often ask you if you want to pay in euros or dollars. It’s best to select euros. We also used local ATM machines to get cash, which came in handy for cabs and snacks. In our experience, ATMs were better than exchanging currency at the airport.

Things I packed and didn’t need –

• Hair straightener (couldn’t use in any of the outlets)
• Jewelry (wore a necklace one night)
• Jeans (heavy and unnecessary)
• Big suitcase (I’ll pack smarter next time)
• Makeup (nobody cared, and I barely used it)

Things I didn’t pack that I wish I had –

• More of these functional pants from REI – (I also liked these)
• My TEVA sandals (loving these right now)
• Hiking poles

Things I was so glad I packed –

• Versatile weatherproof pants (linked above)
• Hats (I rarely did my hair)
• A buff for my neck or wrist
• Good hiking boots and trail shoes (I took these and loved them)
• A light backpack for hiking
• Crossbody purse (or hip bag) for evenings and days out
• Sunglasses
• Raincoat
• Umbrella
• Moisture-wicking layers (tanks, ts and long-sleeve)
• Small bottles of hand sanitizer
• Hair ties (my hair was in a pony or braided most days)
• Good socks
• Dramamine (If you get motion sickness, this is life in Ireland)
• Notes app or a journal
• Fitbit charger (we averaged 22k steps a day)
• Phone charger
• A mobile hotspot (we rented a wifi candy and picked ours up at the Dublin airport)
• GPS

The flight – We flew out of Chicago, which is about two hours from our home. The hardest part was finding a place to park at O’Hare! We got there about three hours early and had plenty of time. The flight was direct to Dublin and took around seven hours – give or take – both ways. I thought Aer Lingus did a tremendous job of keeping everyone fed, comfortable and happy. Take a little something to help you sleep and you’ll be there before you know it! Our experience at the Dublin airport was incredibly positive. Quick and painless!