Ireland adventure Day 6 – Dingle, Dunquin Pier and Galway

Please note: During our trip to Ireland, our priorities were hiking, the most beautiful scenery, pubs and live music. We also rented a car. You won’t find much in these posts about fine dining, shopping or the public transportation, though I’m confident there are great resources for these topics elsewhere online. I have also included some resources at the bottom if you’re planning a similar trip.

I fell asleep and woke up around 1 a.m. Ireland time to Hank trying to talk one of the kids off the ledge back home. I consoled her a bit and tried to fall back asleep. Our room was warm and the unrest an ocean away was weighing on me. It was hard to get comfortable.  

We had breakfast at the inn again, a delicious Belgian waffle for me dressed to perfection in powdered sugar. Then it was time to pack up and head out. Our next official stop was Galway, which was bittersweet since it was our last destination before circling back to Dublin, the bookend to our dream vacation.  

From the time we started having serious discussions about Ireland, I began telling people we were going to Dingle. My boss mentioned it to me years ago and, I don’t know, I just loved to say it. Up until the day we left Indiana, I declared to all who would listen that we were going to Dingle, even though we had confirmation emails for the entire trip and none of them mentioned Dingle. Even though I couldn’t point Dingle out on a map. Even though the only thing I really knew about Dingle was that there was a place there that made sea salt ice cream. Even still, we were going to Dingle. So, on our way to Galway, we decided to actually go to Dingle.

The drive into the town is phenomenal. You’ve got your wildflowers, you’ve got your verdant patchwork valleys, you’ve got your roadways that snake alongside cliffs over cobalt blue water. It was a visual feast of the country’s scenic staples.

We parked by the harbor, which was under construction, but still cool. I’d done some Instagram searching and seen images of Dunquin Pier, which I assumed was there by the harbor. A woman sitting on a bench noticed we looked like lost little Hoosiers and asked if we wanted a picture. We thanked her kindly.

“Do you happen to know where Dunquin Pier is?” I asked.

As was the case with nearly every single Irishman and woman we met, she was a wealth of recommendations. She suggested we take Slea Head Drive, which looped out to Dunquin Pier and back around, with cute little cafes and all the views. Turns out, she was also from The States. “I came to visit Ireland six years ago,” she said, “and that was it! Now I split my time between my home in Colorado and here.” Talk about having each foot on a fresh slab of paradise! It reminded me of my friend, Kim, and her recent move to Portugal. Bravery is carving out the life of your dreams.

Since we were there, we walked around the town a bit. It was charming, with the colorful shops and cafes we’d come to expect, and a towering cathedral. We shipped some gifts home and putzed around.

Then we were onto the main event for the day – Dunquin Pier. I know I say every day was my favorite day, and every hike was special, but as far as views go, Dunquin Pier is in my top two for our entire visit. First of all, the drive there felt like getting dropped into a postcard. Perfect army and spring green camouflage pastures, the sun beaming down over the swaying grasses, peppy poppies peppered across the fields … and then you see the ocean.

As you approach, the mountains and pointed peaks present in the distance, erupting from the tranquil blue water beneath them. The closer you get, the more the indescribable beauty of the Wild Atlantic Way reveals itself. The closest thing to heaven on earth.

The western end of Slea Head is basically the Hollywood of Ireland. You probably know it. I might be one of three people on this planet who hasn’t seen Star Wars, but for those who covet the films, the scenery here should be familiar. It served as Luke Skywalker’s bachelor pad … or something like that. Don’t quote me. In addition to appearing in a galaxy far, far away, this is where they filmed the movie Far and Away, as well as Ryan’s Daughter.

To take it all in from above, I can only describe it as otherworldly. It was like nothing I’d seen before. I was transfixed by the tint of the water and the protruding natural pyramids, both close by and on the horizon.

We parked and walked down toward the path. The thing about cliffs is, you don’t know what’s below until you get right up to the edge. As I peered down over the grassy ledge, the view stole the air right out of my lungs. I sat down as close as I could without scaring myself and Facetimed my sister. Some sights are just too much to keep to yourself. If I’ve said it once, I’ve said it on here a thousand times, I can describe the cliffs of Ireland with every combination of adjectives there is, but you can’t understand until you’re perched on top of a worn ridge of earth, covered in beautiful moss and grasses, with the white seagulls swooping against the slate backdrop. Water crashing at the base. It is pure nirvana.

We took the winding path down by the shoreline. There was this pocket of light turquoise water with a single boat floating in it. Like it was staged to be September in an upcoming wall calendar.

We got brave and scampered down to some rocks below. I mean how often can you say you played at the base of a cliff in Ireland? The tide was down, and the bed of smooth stones were lovely hues of pink, blue, green and gray. I stepped into some deep ocean floor mush and fell. Hank was collecting Dunquin keepsakes for the kids and barely noticed.

I could have stayed there by that cliff with my husband forever. It was like the day we stepped into the ocean. Ireland brought me back to life, as dramatic as that reads. It helped me remember that adventure and exploring are the embers that fuel my passion for life. The air felt different. The sun was warmer. Everything sparked a sense of awe and I realized how long it had been since I’d stood in awe of anything. I love that feeling.  

How long is long enough to soak in something so magnanimous? What is the time limit on admiring Mother Nature’s masterpieces? When is it committed to memory? Imprinted on your brain and your heart? I don’t know if there’s ever enough time.

But we were hungry.

We climbed up from the cliff and drove on to Kruger’s Bar. I ordered a Carlsberg and goat cheese bruschetta drizzled in balsamic that checked every box. We sat outside with the jagged rocks out over the hillside. Sheep were talking and tempting me just over the fence. I could see why Luke Skywalker chose the area. Very serene and zen-inducing.

We dropped our bags at Harbour Hotel Galway around dinnertime and I gasped. Air conditioning! We had actual cool air blowing down from a heavenly box above the bed. I instantly loved this place.

It was just a short walk to town. I adore the ambiance in Irish cities at night. Flags draped between colorful buildings. Live music at every intersection. It’s so vibrant, and Galway was perhaps the liveliest of our stops yet.

We ducked into The Kings Head for dinner. I had the Seafood Chowder and Lobster and Chips, which was work! I hadn’t cracked into a crustacean in quite some time, and it showed. Hank was taken by the building’s history, which dated back to the 13^th century. Of particular interest to my History major husband was the fireplace, which was built in 1612.

According to their website, “For over 400 years the fireplace in the Mayor’s House (Front Bar) has kept generations of Galwegians warm. The fireplace is dated 1612 and features an ornate ‘Marriage Stone’ which carries the Coats of Arms of the Bodkin, Martin and Ffrench families. History aside it’s a great place to lean against while enjoying a pint!” Which people were doing, in 2022, while we were there.

Once we were done eating, we went into the adjoining bar where a band was getting the crowd hype with some trad. I have to hand it to them. They were wearing wool sweaters in a packed bar with no air just thrashing their instruments. I would have needed an IV, at the very least. Listening to trad is an experience. There’s an energy that builds. First people clap, then the clapping gets faster, then there’s some hooting and eventually dancing. The crowd, as a cohesive ball of vitality, reaches a crescendo that just carries you away. When the song’s over, the balloon deflates, and it starts all over again. It’s so contagious.

We chatted on the short walk back to the hotel, passing people with half-gone lagers and pilsners in varying copper tones, in deep discussion. It was another beautiful night and I couldn’t wait to turn the air down, snuggle up and do it all again.  

Quick reference details for those planning a trip to Ireland

Travel agent – We worked with Maria Lieb at Discovering Ireland. We were given her name by an acquaintance who took a very similar trip to ours. Maria helped us narrow down locations, the duration of our stay in each town, selected and booked all of our hotel and inn rooms, reserved our car and insurance, and provided travel guides. You can reach her by emailing maria@discoveringireland.com. 

Transportation – We opted to rent a car so we had flexibility each day. We did the full insurance, including tires, and rented the GPS navigation. In Ireland, compared to the United States, the steering wheel is on the other side of the car, and they drive on the other side of the road, which can be confusing, but you catch on. Also, be prepared … some of the roads are very narrow.

Dates of our trip – While most people go to Ireland in June, July and early August, we were there August 26 – September 5, in an effort to still get decent weather but avoid some of the crowds.

Weather – We were spoiled with the weather while we were there! Temperatures were typically mid- to low-70s during the day and the 60s at night. We only had rain two days.

Money – We primarily used our credit card, which was very easy. They will often ask you if you want to pay in euros or dollars. It’s best to select euros. We also used local ATM machines to get cash, which came in handy for cabs and snacks. In our experience, ATMs were better than exchanging currency at the airport.

Things I packed and didn’t need –

• Hair straightener (couldn’t use in any of the outlets)
• Jewelry (wore a necklace one night)
• Jeans (heavy and unnecessary)
• Big suitcase (I’ll pack smarter next time)
• Makeup (nobody cared, and I barely used it)

Things I didn’t pack that I wish I had –

• More of these functional pants from REI – (I also liked these)
• My TEVA sandals (loving these right now)
• Hiking poles

Things I was so glad I packed –

• Versatile weatherproof pants (linked above)
• Hats (I rarely did my hair)
• A buff for my neck or wrist
• Good hiking boots and trail shoes (I took these and loved them)
• A light backpack for hiking
• Crossbody purse (or hip bag) for evenings and days out
• Sunglasses
• Raincoat
• Umbrella
• Moisture-wicking layers (tanks, ts and long-sleeve)
• Small bottles of hand sanitizer
• Hair ties (my hair was in a pony or braided most days)
• Good socks
• Dramamine (If you get motion sickness, this is life in Ireland)
• Notes app or a journal
• Fitbit charger (we averaged 22k steps a day)
• Phone charger
• A mobile hotspot (we rented a wifi candy and picked ours up at the Dublin airport)
• GPS

The flight – We flew out of Chicago, which is about two hours from our home. The hardest part was finding a place to park at O’Hare! We got there about three hours early and had plenty of time. The flight was direct to Dublin and took around seven hours – give or take – both ways. I thought Aer Lingus did a tremendous job of keeping everyone fed, comfortable and happy. Take a little something to help you sleep and you’ll be there before you know it! Our experience at the Dublin airport was incredibly positive. Quick and painless!