September 2022

Please note: During our trip to Ireland, our priorities were hiking, the most beautiful scenery, pubs and live music. We also rented a car. You won’t find much in these posts about fine dining, shopping or the public transportation, though I’m confident there are great resources for these topics elsewhere online. I have also included some resources at the bottom if you’re planning a similar trip.

I woke up and felt like a new woman. It was the type of sleep where you don’t remember your dreams and you’re pretty certain you’re in the same position you fell asleep in. The Baltimore, Co. Cork air agreed with me. We went down to the restaurant for breakfast and slid into a cozy corner booth. Our table already had a tiered tower dressed in freshly baked breads and pastries, yogurt, cheese and homemade jam. I also ordered scrambled eggs and smoked salmon from the kitchen. The coffee was strong and welcome.

Based on my morning Google search, I discovered that whale watching is big in Baltimore. It was another gorgeous day, with sunny skies and a perfect breeze, so we decided to dress for an afternoon on the open ocean and head down to the harbor, which was wallpapered in posters for daily excursions. The first place we called wasn’t going out. The second didn’t have enough people. And the third said the swells were too dangerous.

There was a handful of people gathering around the area where the ferry came in. We learned that it was heading to Sherkin Island, and decided to hop on board, with no idea what was actually on Sherkin Island. Sometimes being a follower really pays off. (Please don’t tell my children I said that.)

Known to locals as The Island of the Arts, Sherkin is approximately three miles long and boasts a population of roughly 100 people. Also of note, it ended up being one of my absolute favorite places we went. It was a simple day, rich with simple pleasures, lots of steps and good conversation, and beauty everywhere you looked.  

When you get off the ferry, which basically just drives right up onto shore, you’re greeted by a mossy, stone and shell-covered beach. Everyone else just took off, like they knew exactly where they were going. But we, of course, had no agenda. Hank took a call, so I putzed around the beach for a while, picking up shells and smooth stones to take home to the girls. I loved all of the little limpets, or “boy nipples” as Hank called them, stuck to the sides of rocks.

We walked past the old friary and came to a fork in the road. A farmer, without much time for chitchat, told us to walk toward the beach and the café just beyond it, so we headed that way, down the one-lane road along a stone wall.

The first thing we came upon was the island library, where Sherkin Island resident and artist, Tina Reed, was hosting an exhibit. Her work was vibrant and textured and stunning. The walls were adorned with several pieces painted in Killarney (our next stop on our trip) and a number overlooking the ocean from the Sherkin Island shores. Tina, whose husband gives kayak tours around the island, agreed we should keep heading toward the beach and find the charming café by the water.

Tucked into hedges, tied to gates and secured into stonewalls, colorful tags with haiku poems are scattered all over the island. This is the handy work of The Sherkin Island Haiku Group, who has been meeting ever since 2013. There were too many to read them all, but here are two of my favorites:

When people said, “the beach,” it sounds silly, but we weren’t exactly sure what we were looking for. There were several areas that looked like they held varying depths of water throughout the year, and people could, technically, go sit next to these pools. And they were pretty. We kept walking, past lazy island dogs, rolling pastures and properties likely passed down through generations. And then, we came to the beach, and there was no mistaking it. When I tell you it was one of the most breath-taking sights I’ve ever seen, it’s an insulting understatement. I’ve never been privy to beauty like the points on this planet where the Atlantic meets the fractured fringe of Ireland and its supplementary islands. There’s just no describing it. You have to live it.

These were the first of several cliffs we would see during our time in the country, and you know what they say about your first time … You never forget it.

We walked straight down the rippled sand toward the water, like the tide was pulling us to it. It was unlike any beach I’d been on before. A football field of patterned sand sandwiched between dark, tiered cliffs, with a mountain out in the distance. I took a handful of videos but, when I watched them back later, I succumb to the reality that they just couldn’t convey the view.  

After a substantial period of standing in awe, we went back up the sand to the road. In just a few steps, we came upon a second beach and a cliff overlook. There were two tents in the grass near the road, and I joked about the gamble of stepping out for a midnight potty break in this precarious spot near the cliff. But what an amazing place to have your morning coffee.  

Tummy’s rumbling, we continued on to grab a bite at the café we’d heard so much about. Sherkin North Shore, located at the most southern point of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, is a center offering lodging, meals and a creative space for group meetings and trainings. On the Monday we stopped by, the door was open, but no one was home.

We retraced our steps and, when we got back to the fork where we’d started, we went the other way and found The Jolly Roger. You could just smell the history in this dim pub. Short stools that didn’t even reach my knees scattered around sticky tables. Everything decked in a warm, blood red palette. We grabbed a pair of ham and cheese toasties, a Bulmer’s for me and beer for Hank and pulled a set of taller stools up to a barrel on the terrace, with the water in the distance. We let the wear of the walk soak in, talking about life and our kids, with red cheeks and the sun now burning our necks. It was here that Hank wrote his own haiku.

Sherkin Island treat.
Blisters on both of my feet.
Delicious toastie.   

Around 4 o’clock, we caught the ferry back to Baltimore and made the game day decision to do the short hike to Baltimore Beacon. The landmark is a cone-shaped “lighthouse” that actually doesn’t light up at all. Rather, it’s painted white as a warning for ships too close to the cliffs.

According to the website Atlas Obscura, “The beacon was constructed after the Irish Rebellion of 1798 at the orders of the British government. It was part of a whole system of lighthouses that peppered Ireland’s shores to form a coastal warning system.

The original lighthouse eventually fell into disrepair, so this current, conical version replaced it in the late 1840s. It’s become a beloved symbol of Baltimore, a small fishing village in County Cork. Locals call the weirdly shaped tower ‘Lot’s Wife,’ after the Biblical woman who was turned into a pillar of salt. Walking around the beacon rewards visitors with stunning views of both the green landscape and rolling sea.” So, there ya go.

It was 3.3 km from the Baltimore Pier to the beacon, and I can tell you, it was worth every step. Every day, we would say, it can’t get any prettier than this. And then, inevitably, it would. There were wildflowers everywhere, little pops of yellow and purple. When we got to the top, I was gob smacked. Across the way, you could see the cliffs on the outer perimeter of Sherkin Island. Look down, and you see that you are also perched on top of a cliff, with water that’s the most lovely, indescribable shade of blue flooding the space between the two.

I Facetimed my mom, who was going through some things at home, and shared the view with her, hoping it would make her smile. What’s amazing is, I don’t like heights. I have nightmares, often, right before I drift off to sleep, where I am falling, or one of my kids is falling. But there, I sat right on the edge of that cliff and felt more alive and less afraid than I ever have. I closed my eyes and listened to the waves and the birds. I felt the sun on my eyelids. I was so at peace.

I smiled the rest of the way back down. When we reached town, we grabbed a table in The Square overlooking the harbor and got menus from La Jolie Brise. We both got pizza and split some chips (French fries). Of course, more cider and beer. I will tell you that this meal did not blow me away, but the view as the sun set out over the water was everything.

A table of girlfriends were in my eye line, and I couldn’t help watching them. They reminded me of me and my friends at that age. Some things are universal, like the way the women in your life will always listen, get excited for you and laugh at the tough bits (particularly those related to the men in your life).  

We split a perfect warm apple tart before calling it a night and I felt so full of joy as we made the walk back up the slanted streets to Rolf’s.  

Quick reference details for those planning a trip to Ireland

Travel agent – We worked with Maria Lieb at Discovering Ireland. We were given her name by an acquaintance who took a very similar trip to ours. Maria helped us narrow down locations, the duration of our stay in each town, selected and booked all of our hotel and inn rooms, reserved our car and insurance, and provided travel guides. You can reach her by emailing maria@discoveringireland.com. 

Transportation – We opted to rent a car so we had flexibility each day. We did the full insurance, including tires, and rented the GPS navigation. In Ireland, compared to the United States, the steering wheel is on the other side of the car, and they drive on the other side of the road, which can be confusing, but you catch on. Also, be prepared … some of the roads are very narrow.

Dates of our trip – While most people go to Ireland in June, July and early August, we were there August 26 – September 5, in an effort to still get decent weather but avoid some of the crowds.

Weather – We were spoiled with the weather while we were there! Temperatures were typically mid- to low-70s during the day and the 60s at night. We only had rain two days.

Money – We primarily used our credit card, which was very easy. They will often ask you if you want to pay in euros or dollars. It’s best to select euros. We also used local ATM machines to get cash, which came in handy for cabs and snacks. In our experience, ATMs were better than exchanging currency at the airport.

Things I packed and didn’t need –

• Hair straightener (couldn’t use in any of the outlets)
• Jewelry (wore a necklace one night)
• Jeans (heavy and unnecessary)
• Big suitcase (I’ll pack smarter next time)
• Makeup (nobody cared, and I barely used it)

Things I didn’t pack that I wish I had –

• More of these functional pants from REI – (I also liked these)
• My TEVA sandals (loving these right now)
• Hiking poles

Things I was so glad I packed –

• Versatile weatherproof pants (linked above)
• Hats (I rarely did my hair)
• A buff for my neck or wrist
• Good hiking boots and trail shoes (I took these and loved them)
• A light backpack for hiking
• Crossbody purse (or hip bag) for evenings and days out
• Sunglasses
• Raincoat
• Umbrella
• Moisture-wicking layers (tanks, ts and long-sleeve)
• Small bottles of hand sanitizer
• Hair ties (my hair was in a pony or braided most days)
• Good socks
• Dramamine (If you get motion sickness, this is life in Ireland)
• Notes app or a journal
• Fitbit charger (we averaged 22k steps a day)
• Phone charger
• A mobile hotspot (we rented a wifi candy and picked ours up at the Dublin airport)
• GPS

The flight – We flew out of Chicago, which is about two hours from our home. The hardest part was finding a place to park at O’Hare! We got there about three hours early and had plenty of time. The flight was direct to Dublin and took around seven hours – give or take – both ways. I thought Aer Lingus did a tremendous job of keeping everyone fed, comfortable and happy. Take a little something to help you sleep and you’ll be there before you know it! Our experience at the Dublin airport was incredibly positive. Quick and painless! 

Please note: During our trip to Ireland, our priorities were hiking, the most beautiful scenery, pubs and live music. We also rented a car. You won’t find much in these posts about fine dining, shopping or the public transportation, though I’m confident there are great resources for these topics elsewhere online. I have also included some resources at the bottom if you’re planning a similar trip.

Adequately rested after a marathon Day 1, we woke up around 8 a.m., ready to see where the day would take us. I’d read good things about a breakfast place called The Fig Tree, but it didn’t open for another two hours. Simply by default, and perhaps divine intervention, we ended up at Café la Coco.

I loved absolutely everything about this meal, from the pottery our food came in, to the immersive setting. We sat outside and took in the bustle of a Sunday morning in Kilkenny. Young workers moving trash from the night before into dumpsters locked away behind brightly colored sliding doors. Twenty-somethings in messy buns stumbling down for a quick coffee and pastry. Those a decade or two up walking the dogs, pushing a stroller, running errands.

We both ordered breakfast sandwiches and coffee, a latte for me and an Americano for my date. While ours were both equally delicious, I have to say, our neighbor had the Bacon and Maple Pancakes and they looked insanely good. I actually saw him running his finger around the bowl to lick it clean, which is quite the endorsement, universally. He was an older gentleman, a marathoner, from Northern Ireland. In fact, he can “see Scotland from his doorstep.” I know this because in Ireland, unlike many places, the charming countrymen and women love to strike up a conversation. In a last-minute stroke of genius, we ordered a blueberry lemon scone to go.

On our stroll back to the hotel to finish packing, we realized how nice it is to walk to and from a meal. In our town, it would be a real roll of the dice to commute on foot. But in most of the towns we visited, it was easy to hoof it, and it just felt great. I think we largely underestimate the benefits of a casual pre- and post-meal jaunt.

Kilkenny to Blarney Castle and Gardens

Before we left, Hank and I both agreed we would be perfectly fine with skipping the “touristy” attractions in order to leave more room for hiking and exploring. And we honestly didn’t intend to do the whole Blarney experience. But we did, and I gotta tell ya, it was pretty freaking cool.

Initially, we planned on going to a different area, but as we were driving and converting kilometers to miles, Hank realized it was going to put us at our hotel pretty late that evening. So, I picked up the trusty GPS and typed in the only name I recognized from the signs: Blarney. (Did I mention we didn’t really have a solid itinerary?) We’ll just take a quick look, since we’re here, we thought.

We purchased tickets and two ice cream comes and spent the next few hours walking around the majestic Blarney Gardens. The wait to kiss the stone was an hour long and, call me COVID-crazy, but I just didn’t have a burning desire to match lips with hundreds of my newest acquaintances, so we skipped it. But it didn’t take anything away from the experience.

The grounds have every type of tree you can imagine and tout some of the tallest in Ireland. There’s even a tree – a Western Red Cedar – that appears to have grown two new trees. (See picture for reference, it’s so hard to explain.) Everything is meticulous and vibrant, with names like the Carnivorous Courtyard and Poison Garden.

It was while poking around Blarney House, a historic residence on the grounds, when I thought I saw Daniel Radcliffe with another gentleman and two small children. This was on the heels of Hank thinking Paul Mescal from “Normal People” checked us into Hotel Kilkenny the night before. We were painfully wrong, on both accounts.

Of everything we saw, waterfalls and giant ferns and floral archways, my two favorite parts of Blarney Gardens were the Wishing Steps and the Seven Sisters, mostly because I just love a good legend. According to the sign, any believer with a wish in their heart who closes their eyes and walks first forward, then backward up the Wishing Steps will have their dream come true. I am notoriously clumsy with both eyes open, so I did not opt for the full immersion here, but I did watch a couple go through the ritual and it made me smile. And I’d be lying if I didn’t say I recited a little wish to myself as I ascended the ancient stairway.

The Seven Sisters story gave me goosebumps. Here is the version from the website: “Just northeast of the Castle can be found a circle of nine standing stones, two of which have fallen. It is said that in medieval times a chieftain who had two young sons and seven daughters took his sons on their first battle against a troublesome neighbour who was constantly raiding his cattle. The chieftain was victorious in the battle but at great cost: both his sons were killed. Returning to his cattle with his troops and the bodies of his sons, he stopped at this familiar spot and to mark the death of his sons the grieving chieftain ordered his men to knock over two of the stones.” 

As a mother, I mean … it just tears ya up. Even if it is just a circle of rocks. Overall, I would say the Blarney experience is worth the trip, particularly if the sun is shining and you’ve got good walking shoes.

Blarney Castle and Gardens to Baltimore, County Cork

It was roughly 90 minutes from the Blarney grounds to our destination for the evening, Baltimore, County Cork. Listen to me when I say that this was the longest 90 minutes of. my. life.

Allow me, if you will, to paint a picture for you … Imagine being strapped into a chair that is barreling along a hedge at 60 mph. Every once in a while, a box truck, or a van or a greedy compact car or, in the worst of worst-case scenarios, a semi, comes flying around a curve and you get to dip into the hedge and find out if there’s, say, a stonewall hiding behind the shrubs. Between the Polo’s hyper-sensitive brakes, my husband’s unscratched itch to be a racecar driver and my natural tendency to get sick as hell on anything that moves, it was a real ten-layer trifle of terrifying. My forearm started to spasm I was gripping the door handle so tight. The commute was gorgeous. Absolutely gut-wrenching. But gorgeous. But the true saving grace was that scone. Oh, that beautiful scone. When has a well-made pastry not been able to cure the woes of the world, I ask you?

Coming into Baltimore is what I imagine the coastal areas in New England are like, though I’ve never been. Boats tethered and spaced in the harbor, bobbing in the last minutes of the day’s sunlight. Streets that slant and build in activity until they crescendo down by the water, the main attraction.

We pulled into Rolf’s Country House & Restaurant around dinnertime. A pair of gentlemen helped us get our hefty suitcases up into our room (“Do you have Grandma in here?” one of them joked) and brought us crisps (potato chips) and prosecco, which made me instantly fall in love with them. This was by far my favorite of the places we stayed. Not just because they fed me carbs, but the rooms, of which there are only 10, are beautiful.

We downed our bubbles, showered and walked down toward the harbor to find dinner. There was live music close to the water, but nowhere to sit, so we backtracked a bit to The Algier’s Inn. Fate, again took a hand. This was one of my top meals for the whole trip. At the suggestion of our absolutely adorable waitress, I went for the fried fish sandwich and skinny fries, paired with a lovely local cider. I still have dreams about this sandwich. The fish was perfectly breaded and crispy, dressed in the yummiest sauce. Hank had a burger and a West Cork IPA, brewed by one of the only female brewers in Ireland (#girldad), who also happened to be helping out at Algier’s that very evening. (So, we did have at least one legitimate celebrity sighting.)

After three different servers professed their love for the Sticky Toffee Pudding, we basically had to give it a go, and it was delicious. After we said we were done, the same saint waitress who recommended the fish, demonstrated the proper way to scrape up the remaining gooey bits and lick the spoon clean. As Sticky Toffee virgins, we had no clue how dedicated this dessert fan base is. I’ve got nothin’ but respect for the bowl scrapers out there.

Full and happy, we walked back up the slanted streets to Rolf’s, on top of the hill. It got pretty dark in some spots, so we picked up the pace and burned off some pudding. I don’t know if it was all of the walking, or the jetlag finally catching up with me, or my satiated belly or, I’d like to think, the lovely breeze coming off the water and through our open window, but I slept like a baby that night. A fat, insanely joyful baby.

Quick reference details for those planning a trip to Ireland

Travel agent – We worked with Maria Lieb at Discovering Ireland. We were given her name by an acquaintance who took a very similar trip to ours. Maria helped us narrow down locations, the duration of our stay in each town, selected and booked all of our hotel and inn rooms, reserved our car and insurance, and provided travel guides. You can reach her by emailing maria@discoveringireland.com. 

Transportation – We opted to rent a car so we had flexibility each day. We did the full insurance, including tires, and rented the GPS navigation. In Ireland, compared to the United States, the steering wheel is on the other side of the car, and they drive on the other side of the road, which can be confusing, but you catch on. Also, be prepared … some of the roads are very narrow.

Dates of our trip – While most people go to Ireland in June, July and early August, we were there August 26 – September 5, in an effort to still get decent weather but avoid some of the crowds.

Weather – We were spoiled with the weather while we were there! Temperatures were typically mid- to low-70s during the day and the 60s at night. We only had rain two days.

Money – We primarily used our credit card, which was very easy. They will often ask you if you want to pay in euros or dollars. It’s best to select euros. We also used local ATM machines to get cash, which came in handy for cabs and snacks. In our experience, ATMs were better than exchanging currency at the airport.

Things I packed and didn’t need –

• Hair straightener (couldn’t use in any of the outlets)
• Jewelry (wore a necklace one night)
• Jeans (heavy and unnecessary)
• Big suitcase (I’ll pack smarter next time)
• Makeup (nobody cared, and I barely used it)

Things I didn’t pack that I wish I had –

• More of these functional pants from REI – (I also liked these)
• My TEVA sandals (loving these right now)
• Hiking poles

Things I was so glad I packed –

• Versatile weatherproof pants (linked above)
• Hats (I rarely did my hair)
• A buff for my neck or wrist
• Good hiking boots and trail shoes (I took these and loved them)
• A light backpack for hiking
• Crossbody purse (or hip bag) for evenings and days out
• Sunglasses
• Raincoat
• Umbrella
• Moisture-wicking layers (tanks, ts and long-sleeve)
• Small bottles of hand sanitizer
• Hair ties (my hair was in a pony or braided most days)
• Good socks
• Dramamine (If you get motion sickness, this is life in Ireland)
• Notes app or a journal
• Fitbit charger (we averaged 22k steps a day)
• Phone charger
• A mobile hotspot (we rented a wifi candy and picked ours up at the Dublin airport)
• GPS

The flight – We flew out of Chicago, which is about two hours from our home. The hardest part was finding a place to park at O’Hare! We got there about three hours early and had plenty of time. The flight was direct to Dublin and took around seven hours – give or take – both ways. I thought Aer Lingus did a tremendous job of keeping everyone fed, comfortable and happy. Take a little something to help you sleep and you’ll be there before you know it! Our experience at the Dublin airport was incredibly positive. Quick and painless! 

Please note: During our trip to Ireland, our priorities were hiking, the most beautiful scenery, pubs and live music. We also rented a car. You won’t find much in these posts about fine dining, shopping or the public transportation, though I’m confident there are great resources for these topics elsewhere online. I have also included some resources at the bottom if you’re planning a similar trip.

I have wanted to go to Ireland forever. No, I don’t have any familial ties, I just think it’s enchanting. The mossy cliffs, the baby sheep bouncing across pastures, the rolling valleys showcasing every shade of green the human eye has ever seen. A few years ago, Hank and I took the girls to a cabin in southern Indiana. One of the owners was from Ireland and I mentioned how a visit was on my bucket list. “It’s the closest thing there is to heaven on earth,” she said.

We decided we would never actually go unless we picked a date. This fall marks our 15^th wedding anniversary and my 40^th trip around the sun, so 2022 was the big winner. An acquaintance of Hank’s happened to mention that her and her husband had gone and had a great experience. She gave us the name of her travel agent (linked and listed below) and things started becoming official.

Then, on August 16, ten days before we were scheduled to head toward heaven, I started to feel … off. After more than two years of dodging the inevitable, I tested positive for COVID. Even more inconvenient, Hank followed in my footsteps on Friday, the 19^th. That sassy little virus took us down! There’s definitely a 48-hour period during that week that I just don’t remember. We quarantined, we pushed fluids, we pulled out our laptops and we started planning out hikes. Because, gosh dang it, nothing … and I mean, nothing, was going to get in the way of the trip I’d been dreaming of for my entire adult life. Not Omicron. Not any of his punk little sibling strains. Nothing.

The day before we left, I finally got a negative test and Hank started to turn the corner. We got a pack of these breathable little buddies, had our youngest sit on our giant suitcases, zipped ‘em, tipped ‘em and got ready to head to Chicago.    

Chicago to Dublin

Honestly, the hardest part of the flight to Dublin was navigating Chicago O’Hare International Airport. The lot we wanted was full, so we were directed to another parking garage, which we couldn’t find and knew would be more expensive. Absolutely everything was under construction. It’s just crazy there! Big airports like that remind me of hectic cities and send my anxiety into the rafters. The people watching is on point though. (Highlight: A young gal wearing a legit bra as a shirt, a la Seinfeld’s “The Bra-less Wonder”.)

I was really impressed with Aer Lingus®. Each passenger got a blanket, pillow and adorable little earbuds with clovers on them. I popped two regular strength Dramamine and turned on “And Just Like That …” We were a bit delayed taking off, so the pilot announced we would be making up for it in the air. They brought around a snack, and I was still awake. Another episode of Carrie, Miranda and Charlotte. Then a meal. I was still awake. Before I knew it, we were eating breakfast sandwiches and the pilot was getting the cabin ready for landing. I never slept. Neither did Hank.   

Breakfast in Dublin

We left Chicago around 3 p.m. their time and landed in Dublin at 5 a.m. their time. The Saturday morning sun was piercing through the broad windows of the Dublin airport as we made our way through customs and to baggage claim. We picked up our Wi-Fi candy (portable Wi-Fi hotspot) on the lower level and went to get our rental car. This was the moment Hank had been dreading for months. He wouldn’t say it, but I could tell.

Shockingly, rental car places just give you the keys to a car and a little GPS screen and wish you all the best on your holiday. You know, the holiday you’re having in a country where everything from a vehicular standpoint is done entirely backwards. We forced our gigantic stuffed suitcases into the back seat and rear hatch – after we figured out how to open it – and climbed into the VW Polo. We spent a little time in that parking garage, as Hank tried to familiarize himself with the lights, the seat (initially pressing him up into the steering wheel), the buttons. She was a sweet little foreign girl. And she was fully covered in insurance and ours for the next ten days.

I did a quick search for the best breakfast in Dublin and found a place called Lemon Jelly Café with a thirst trap photo of a foamy latte. I punched it in and we got on the highway. Initially, it all felt a little wild. Sitting in the driver’s seat, but not driving. Seeing my husband adjust and respond in real time. At one point, I looked up and saw a spider hanging over his head. My instinct was to swing it at it like a savage killer. Hank couldn’t even look at what I was doing, he was so zoned in. But it was when we got off the highway that the real fun started.

We definitely drove in some circles, per the GPS. “Left to left,” Hank kept saying out loud as he rotated the steering wheel. We only made one major mistake though, when we turned onto a street with rails and realized no car was meant to be there. Would a train come barreling toward us? Who knew! What an adventure!

Eventually, we found a parking garage near where we believed Lemon Jelly to be and got out to walk. I got lemon crepes and sourdough toast, and Hank went for the traditional Irish breakfast, for the first and only time. The coffee lived up to the hype.

Time awake: 23 hours

Dublin to Brandon Hill

We left Dublin and headed toward Freaghana, County Kilkenny, and the trail head for the Brandon Hill summit walk, a suggestion we’d come across when we were sequestered and scrolling. The drive was just over two hours. Hank used AllTrails to find the best place to pick up the trail and we punched it into the GPS. When we initially exited the highway, Hank made a comment about how the roads were a little narrow. As we followed the prompts and the sparse signs for Brandon Hill, navigating our way to carpark A, deer park, the pavement kept shrinking, until we were down to a single lane. No shoulder. Branches and slumping vines battering the sides of the Polo.

“This can’t be right,” Hank said. And then a few minutes later, “I mean, this just can’t be right.”

This was our first taste of the bittersweet side of chasing down the best trails. Is a car coming down the mountain? Maybe! What a ride! When they come around the corner will they stop and back up or will we have to find a way? We’ll have to wait and see! The surprises are endless!

After the longest half mile of our lives, we came across a house. There were clothes on the line and vehicles everywhere. A gate was propped open just past the yard so we, hesitantly proceeded through. A few seconds later, Hank stopped.

He came back to the chorus. “This can’t be right.”

A car stopped behind the Polo and I ran back. “Hey! I’m sorry, but I think we’re lost. We’re trying to get to the trailhead for Brandon Hill.”

“Yup!” the woman in the passenger seat smiled. “This is just Ireland roads!”

OK, then. Giddy up!

We came to the carpark shortly after and changed into our hiking shoes. A few young families were standing around the map, strategizing; the dads smoking cigarettes in preparation. Brandon Hill is a loop, up a gravel road, through a shaded pine passing and then either straight up to the summit, or a more gradual pebble-packed path. To reach the top is to climb the highest mountain in Co. Kilkenny at 1,690 ft.

We opted for the direct path on the way up. The summit is covered in these purple plants I’ve spent a good amount of time Googling and have officially decided to list as furze and heather, with 70% confidence. Whatever the flowers are, they blanket the top of the mountain, and bees absolutely love them. A constant buzzing and my labored breaths were the only instruments in the orchestra as we trudged up to the large cross at the top.

“You’re almost there,” Hank kept taunting. We weren’t.

And then we were. The 360-degree view from the peak of Brandon Hill is breathtaking. The patchwork quilt of pastures, divided neatly by historic stonewalls and orderly bushes. The sand-hued fields of barley, large boulders peppered across the horizon. The sky was a brilliant royal blue, streaked in wispy clouds. After decades of dreaming about these views, lusting after the Wild Atlantic Way, I was here, standing on top of a mountain. And I cried.

Time awake: 29 hours    

Brandon Hill to Kilkenny

We played chicken with a tractor on our drive back down from the trailhead. “I just drove a quarter mile in reverse on a one-lane mountainside on the wrong side of the car in Ireland,” Hank commented after finding a field to duck into so they could pass.

The roads eventually returned to two lanes as we made our way to Hotel Kilkenny. The first thing I noticed when we finally got to our room was that there was no air conditioning. (American girl problems.) It was so stifling as we unpacked and got situated. We both knew that if we gave in to the temptress covered in fresh sheets and pillows, we’d never leave the room, so we quickly showered and headed out for dinner.

“How do we get to the restaurants?” I asked a lady at the front desk.

“Oh, it’s easy,” she said. “Just turn right and walk until you see the castle.” Something you don’t hear every day.

The area around Kilkenny Castle is charming. Rows of brightly colored shops, art boutiques and restaurants punctuated with vibrant flower boxes are the perfect backdrop for pedestrians, coming and going, in and out. Hank remembered he needed distilled water for his CPAP, so we ducked into a pharmacy before dinner.

First, I must say that the individuals who work in pharmacies in Ireland are the most dedicated, caring people. They ask questions and they genuinely want to heal what’s ailing you. This wasn’t your typical impersonal Walgreens or CVS interaction. Upon our request, the pharmacist came back with a jug of distilled water and rang it up. It was $17. Hank looked at her, blinking. Turns out, distilled water is a hot commodity in Ireland and comes with the price tag to prove it. Hank referred to it as his “liquid gold” the rest of the trip.

We came over the bridge and saw Matt the Millers Bar & Restaurant and remembered the recommendation from a friend. We sat on the second level and ordered drinks immediately, an Outcider for me, Smithwicks for Hank. Now, let me offer you an insider tip that my husband got too late into our trip. One that will make this whole blog post worth your time. The “h” and “w” in Smithwicks are silent. So, as a kind-hearted bartender finally told Hank on the seventh night of our epic pub crawl, it is pronounced “Smiticks” or “Smih-dicks.” You’re welcome. I got fish and chips (the first of many) and my date rolled the dice on a chicken dish with black pudding. Everything was good, but honestly, we were too punchy to really absorb much.

Our sweet waitress invited us to come back for the DJ. “Where you’re sitting will be the dance floor and he’ll go till 3 a.m.” We smiled graciously, knowing we’d already be asleep back at Hotel Kilkenny by the time his fingers touched the knobs. She also told us about her three jobs and the housing crisis in Ireland. How expensive things had become and how much people were struggling. This theme in conversation, along with the breaded haddock, would become a trend for our trip.

Hen parties came in, sloppy and sublime. We congratulated a bride-to-be and we gushed a bit over each other the way buzzed up women do. Everyone wished us the best holiday, and we cashed out so we could go cash out.

We had to stop by Kilkenny Castle since we passed it on our walk back to the hotel. Hank was a history major, so the thought of moats and windows placed strategically for shooting bows, and dungeons and medieval lore made him light up like a Christmas tree.

We were zombies by the time the elevator opened to our floor. I fell into bed and immediately started sweating. I didn’t get much sleep, but we had made it.

Total wake time: 35 hours

Quick reference details for those planning a trip to Ireland

Travel agent – We worked with Maria Lieb at Discovering Ireland. We were given her name by an acquaintance who took a very similar trip to ours. Maria helped us narrow down locations, the duration of our stay in each town, selected and booked all of our hotel and inn rooms, reserved our car and insurance, and provided travel guides. You can reach her by emailing maria@discoveringireland.com. 

Transportation – We opted to rent a car so we had flexibility each day. We did the full insurance, including tires, and rented the GPS navigation. In Ireland, compared to the United States, the steering wheel is on the other side of the car, and they drive on the other side of the road, which can be confusing, but you catch on. Also, be prepared … some of the roads are very narrow.

Dates of our trip – While most people go to Ireland in June, July and early August, we were there August 26 – September 5, in an effort to still get decent weather but avoid some of the crowds.

Weather – We were spoiled with the weather while we were there! Temperatures were typically mid- to low-70s during the day and the 60s at night. We only had rain two days.

Money – We primarily used our credit card, which was very easy. They will often ask you if you want to pay in euros or dollars. It’s best to select euros. We also used local ATM machines to get cash, which came in handy for cabs and snacks. In our experience, ATMs were better than exchanging currency at the airport.

Things I packed and didn’t need –

• Hair straightener (couldn’t use in any of the outlets)
• Jewelry (wore a necklace one night)
• Jeans (heavy and unnecessary)
• Big suitcase (I’ll pack smarter next time)
• Makeup (nobody cared, and I barely used it)

Things I didn’t pack that I wish I had –

• More of these functional pants from REI – (I also liked these)
• My TEVA sandals (loving these right now)
• Hiking poles

Things I was so glad I packed –

• Versatile weatherproof pants (linked above)
• Hats (I rarely did my hair)
• A buff for my neck or wrist
• Good hiking boots and trail shoes (I took these and loved them)
• A light backpack for hiking
• Crossbody purse (or hip bag) for evenings and days out
• Sunglasses
• Raincoat
• Umbrella
• Moisture-wicking layers (tanks, ts and long-sleeve)
• Small bottles of hand sanitizer
• Hair ties (my hair was in a pony or braided most days)
• Good socks
• Dramamine (If you get motion sickness, this is life in Ireland)
• Notes app or a journal
• Fitbit charger (we averaged 22k steps a day)
• Phone charger
• A mobile hotspot (we rented a wifi candy and picked ours up at the Dublin airport)
• GPS

The flight – We flew out of Chicago, which is about two hours from our home. The hardest part was finding a place to park at O’Hare! We got there about three hours early and had plenty of time. The flight was direct to Dublin and took around seven hours – give or take – both ways. I thought Aer Lingus did a tremendous job of keeping everyone fed, comfortable and happy. Take a little something to help you sleep and you’ll be there before you know it! Our experience at the Dublin airport was incredibly positive. Quick and painless!