If your book club is on the hunt for a story that’s funny, heartfelt and full of conversation-worthy moments, my book, BLAZIN’ by Courtney Leach, delivers. This women’s fiction novel follows four best friends who take their midlife crises to the mountains of Georgia to section hike the Appalachian Trail. What starts as an adventure quickly becomes a reckoning, with nature, their bodies and each other.
Here are four reasons BLAZIN’ deserves a spot as your next book club pick:
1. The characters (and their struggles) are deeply relatable
Women in their 30s, 40s and 50s will see themselves reflected in the six unforgettable women at the heart ofBLAZIN’. They’re overworked, underappreciated and constantly pulled in a million directions—by work, family and the relentless pace of life.
Each is navigating the quiet ache of feeling invisible, the fear that youth and time are slipping away, and the nagging question: Is this it?
Whether you’re a mother, a caretaker, a professional or a woman who’s simply tired of giving so much of herself to everyone else, BLAZIN’ captures what it means to lose your spark, and what it takes to reignite it.
2. It sparks thought-provoking conversation
The best book club books don’t just entertain, they make you talk, think and sometimes even disagree. The women in BLAZIN’ are real and flawed. They have long, layered histories with one another. Their love, resentment, loyalty and frustration are all tangled up in ways that feel incredibly real.
Each reader is bound to identify with a different character or choice, making BLAZIN’ a perfect catalyst for deep, honest discussions about friendship, identity, aging and what we owe ourselves versus what we owe others.
3. It’s a page-turning adventure
If Wild, Big Little Lies and Five-Star Weekend had a love child, it would be BLAZIN’. This book blends humor, heart and high-stakes adventure as the friends tackle unpredictable weather, physical injuries and emotional truths on the Appalachian Trail.
The mountains test them, but they also heal them. The story is full of sharp dialogue, touching moments and vivid wilderness scenes that make you feel like you’re right there, sweating, laughing and climbing beside them.
It’s the kind of book that keeps you turning pages late into the night, and then texting your friends to ask: “Are you at this part yet?”
4. You can support an indie author
We tend to see the same traditionally published books promoted on social media and in our feeds—and that’s awesome—but there’s something special about discovering a fresh voice outside the mainstream.
By choosing BLAZIN’ for your book club, you’re supporting an independent author who brings a new, authentic perspective to women’s fiction. It’s fun to find a story that hasn’t been overhyped, to read something that feels fresh, grounded and crafted with heart.
While I’m located in northern Indiana, it would be my absolute joy to join your book club via video chat or, if it’s close enough, in person, to offer my perspective on the characters, dialogue and twists and turns of BLAZIN’. You can contact me through my author site or social media.
Ready to bring BLAZIN’ to your Book Club?
BLAZIN’ by Courtney Leach is currently available in ebook and paperback, through Amazon and barnesandnoble.com.
Perfect for fans of: Elin Hilderbrand, Cheryl Strayed, Liane Moriarty and Katherine Center Setting: The Midwest, the mountains of Georgia, along the Appalachian Trail Themes: Friendship, midlife reinvention, resilience, self-discovery, divorce, marriage, motherhood
Back in 2018, the world was a different place. My youngest was in preschool, the thought of a deadly, global pandemic seemed like nothing more than a Hollywood plotline and no one was labeling what “era” they were in. That winter, I innocently opened a Word document on my laptop and began writing a novel (my first) about four women doing a section of the Appalachian Trail.
The neglected work in progress, titled simply “Hike,” lived in the bottom right corner of my desktop like a set of dusty bookshelves. I tended to it here and there, when I had time to kill or came across it. It was fun, low-pressure. I was writing what I knew, having some experience on the AT, which you can read about here, here, here and here.
But I never truly believed I’d finish it. No one would ever see “Hike.”
Enter the lockdown.
In 2020, like most of you, I found myself with significantly more hobby time on my hands. It was during those long, uncertain months that I really started sculpting out “Hike.” Who were these women? What events led them to venture into the Georgia mountains? What would come of their time in the wild? What was the tension? Would they make it out?
Then another twist. In November 2022, my dad got sick, and everything else in my life got very quiet. Every effort was either entirely necessary for the survival of my family or tethered to him. His hospital stays, his appointments, his progress, his setbacks, his weight loss, his disappearing act. The anticipatory grief, and then the actual grief.
Dad passed away in July 2024, and I poured my pain into writing a fictional novella based loosely on my experience. Writing “He Answers to Grief” was the literary exercise I needed at a time when nothing cooled the incapacitating burn of our loss. And I have to say, the connections I’ve made through self-publishing that story have been an embarrassment of unforeseen riches.
But, like the rest of my reality, the women of “Hike” were waiting.
Armed with a better (not GREAT, but better) understanding of the indie author process, self-promotion and editing, I returned to Georgia in my mind. I enlisted more beta readers (see below), did more research and read every word until I could practically recite the thing.
I gave it a name, “Puds,” and then renamed it “Blazin’.”
And now it’s finished.
What’s BLAZIN’ about?
Helena Ward might be halfway through her life, which isn’t special. Just unsettling. Often, following a day of dealing with her busy family, lackluster career and the ceaseless conveyor belt of demands for her time, she stares up at the sky from her suburban neighborhood and wonders if where she is, is all there is.
When a one-two punch of unexpected news rattles her, it sparks an adventure. After much convincing, Helena takes her close circle of girlfriends for a section hike on the Appalachian Trail. In the Georgia mountains, led by their guide, Granola, they encounter punishing injuries, inclement weather and the unpredictable elements of human nature.
Throughout the roller coaster trek, with its turbulent rises and falls, the women confront the weight they carried onto the trail. They must decide what to shed and what to pack out when they return to the comforts and constraints waiting for them back home.
What inspired this story?
Certainly, my time on the AT with my husband, brother and friends was the initial spark, but BLAZIN’ is also a brutally honest look at what, I believe, many women feel as they approach middle age, overcommitted, exhausted and reflecting on the dreams they always assumed they’d get to one day.
Above all, BLAZIN‘ is a love story to my female friendships, each of which I believe makes me better and stronger in one way or another. There’s something magical about a group of women gathering, sharing and offering support. At 43, I’m approaching relationships that are nearly three decades deep, and when someone holds your history like that, it’s hard not to be inspired.
How can I support BLAZIN’?
Every time someone feels motivated to purchase something I’ve written, I’m humbled. Money and time are always tight, and your investment in my passion projects means so much, as do your stories of how you’ve gifted or shared my work with someone special to you.
If you enjoy BLAZIN‘, please consider leaving a review on Goodreads or Amazon. This is never expected, always appreciated, and a tremendous way to spread the word.
If you see something, say something! Often, I think people avoid telling me when they find errors out of fear of hurting my feelings. Believe me, I’d rather know and fix it than send these pages out into the world with a ridiculous rogue space or [gasp!] absent apostrophe. It’s a small operation here, folks!
Where can I get a copy?
BLAZIN’ is now available online, in ebook and paperback. Thislinkwill show you all of the retailers currently carrying the novel. I’m constantly updating these connections, so be sure to check back if you don’t see an option you like. (Some digital storefronts take longer than others, especially for print files.)
Special thanks …
To my incredible, generous, insightful beta readers, I know I’ll forget someone: MOM! Jackie, Sarah, Katie, Kim, Jacque, Stephanie, Natalie and Alyce. Plus, Ms. O’Reilly, my high school journalism teacher, who continues to help me improve as a writer and human 25 years later.
My dad read an early version of this novel, and I’ll never forget his feedback. “It’s really great. You need to edit down your descriptions.” Hope I tamed ‘em enough for ya, Dad.
Nissa, for designing the cover and threading thoughtful ties back to “He Answers to Grief.” You make me look good, and I’m so grateful you’re willing to share your talent.
My Excel magician, ClaireBear. The numbers aren’t big, but they all have a place thanks to you!
I released “He Answers to Grief” on March 23. Since then, I’ve sold 130 copies and learned a lot about indie book publishing and myself.
No. 1 – Marketing yourself is massively vulnerable
I’ve been a professional writer for more than 20 years. During those decades, I’ve pasted my byline on more pieces than I can tally–some of which I’m proud of, and some I cringe to think about now. But a book is a different beast.
No one gave me this assignment. I wasn’t tasked with a creative writing project or paid to put down 40k words on loss. This was an original concept, spawned from a life experience, twisted into a fictional novella and thrown out into the big, wild world on a whim.
But because there is no larger vehicle to deliver this little book baby out into people’s feeds and retailer locations, it falls to me, the author, to spread the word to all those looking for a quick read and a good cry. And that is more challenging than I anticipated.
I know marketing, that’s not the problem. It’s marketing myself that sits like spoiled milk in my tummy. Have you ever had to be your own hypewoman? It’s tough! Not to mention, Grief pushed me into the TikTok sphere, which is a whole thing. Am I crazy, or is everyone on there either crying, homesteading or pulling something out of their ear hole? It’s a lot of recycled soundbites and making coffee, sitting in cars. I’m still trying to figure it out.
No. 2 – People are incredible
From the first drafts I sent to a few beta readers, I have been stunned by the support and kindness of the people in my life. Co-workers (former and current), acquaintances, family and friends have shown up for me in this way that no one ever feels they deserve, but we all need on occasion.
When people started texting pictures of their books arriving–I don’t know why it didn’t occur to me that they would–it made me cry. I was so nervous about the whole endeavor, but knowing there were others out there who were excited for me turned my terror into gratitude. What could feel better than another soul saying, I want to see what you did?
No 3 – It’s humbling to be seen
That’s a good segue into this last bit. We’re all unique, intricate animals. What makes me tick is different than what makes you tick, than what makes your neighbor tick, than what makes your Aunt Fanny tick. When someone in your life takes a sliver of their precious time to learn about your particulars, and then goes a step further and celebrates them, it’s magic!
I love a lot of things–nature, hiking, deep conversations, good people, baked goods, kayaking, fruity beers and sours, sunrises and sunsets–but writing is my passion. Always has been. And someone taking an interest and wanting to actually read and discuss something I’ve written is my love language. Words of affirmation and all that.
I think it’s easy to forget how good it feels to be truly seen, and I’ve been gifted with some of the most generous reminders from some glorious human beings in the past three weeks. Texts and photos, reviews, emails, handwritten cards, hugs, calls. Being on the receiving end of your love and well-wishes has been a bouquet of beautiful Forget-Me-Nots. Meditations on the undeniable truth that seeing people matters. Understanding them matters. Saying, not just thinking, a sentiment is powerful. And having people in your life who will genuinely cheer you on is a gift. And I will never take any of it for granted.
The Sunday I put the book out there, my youngest made a fuss. She had her dad take her to get a giant balloon and moved it to my bedroom so I would wake up every morning to Congratulations! She crafted paper hats and a banner with “He Answers to Grief.” She and her sisters baked cupcakes with whippy frosting. It was interesting. I didn’t feel proud until I saw the achievement through her eyes. (Even though there were five–yes, FIVE–mistakes in those first copies. If you have one of those, consider it a collector’s item.) I think we all fall victim to that. We don’t see a true reflection in the mirror. It takes someone else to hold up the glass.
Thank you feels puny and entirely inadequate. I have been humbled by your readership and moved by your kindness. Sometimes, the scariest things are the ones that bring the most clarity. And my eyes are wide open to the amazing circle I have around me.
The sucky thing about the subject matter is that we will all experience grief. If you are in it, my heart is with you, just as so many of yours have been with me and my family these past several months. We don’t have to be sad alone.
Please note: During our trip to Ireland, our priorities were hiking, the most beautiful scenery, pubs and live music. We also rented a car. You won’t find much in these posts about fine dining, shopping or the public transportation, though I’m confident there are great resources for these topics elsewhere online. I have also included some resources at the bottom if you’re planning a similar trip.
I had another great night of sleep in our cozy second floor room at Rolf’s. It’s interesting, there aren’t any screens in the windows in Ireland, but I never saw any bugs. We had a perfect breeze, and everything was so comfortable. This was probably my favorite of all the places we stayed. We woke up, enjoyed another great breakfast in the restaurant and packed up to head to our next stop on the trip: Killarney.
On our way, we decided to go see Mizen Head Signal Station (pronounced by locals with a short “i,” or with a ridiculous long “i” if you’re a silly American), the most southwesterly point in Ireland. We passed through cute towns like Skibbereen, with charming brightly colored buildings, and drove by land and seascapes that took my breath away. Particularly as you get closer to the point, the oceanfront scenes are exceptional. Of course, you endure a matrix of insanely narrow roads to get there, so as I’d say, “Oh my God, just look at that!” Hank would just smile out of the side of his mouth, his hands gripping at 10 and 2.
Our afternoon at Mizen Head is one I’ll never forget. People told us it was like the Cliffs of Moher on a smaller scale, and I would agree with that, but I would also say that the entire experience was closer … more humbling.
There are so many ramps and steps, that you can walk as much or as little as you like. We started by going out over the bridge toward the station. Suspended over water, Hank looked down and spotted a seal living his best life in the small inlet under the bridge, a long, playful body moving in a natural teal pool.
There were look out points pointing you toward jagged peninsulas, with the Wild Atlantic as far as the eye could see. I suppose some lucky folks have spotted whales off the shoreline. The wind pounded against my ears and lifted my hat as I put my life in the hands of an iron fence and ventured down the planks hovering in the air.
As we went the other way, down by the main cliffs, I was amazed at all of the intricacies layered into these shale and sandstone faces. Within the profiles of the cliffs, there are inlets and coves and caves for exploring. I stood at the closest point, with the sun riding the tops of the ocean’s ripples and tried to commit the scene to memory. A magnificent marbled silhouette, limbs outstretched into the diamond-studded water, trimmed in the lace of the waves connecting with ragtag earth. We were observing a poem in motion.
There is a café and nice gift shop on site. As we were leaving, a family was passing around a teapot at a picnic table overlooking the cliffs and it made me smile. We drove by a group of cows on the way out and Hank asked if I thought they knew what a great setup they had.
As we made our way back down the narrow roads that took us to the cliffs, Hank had a better view of the beaches. “We’re going down there,” he said. “We’re going to figure out how to get there and we’re getting in that water.”
And so, we did. We took a right over a one-lane bridge and parked at Barleycove. A short stroll down a boardwalk and over a floating bridge of plastic blocks, and our naked toes were pressing into the Ireland sand.
I will tell you that there, on that beach with our pant legs rolled up and our shoes dangling from the crooks of our fingers, I felt parts of my spirit wake up. I felt more present, more connected, more in touch with this world than I have in years. I let myself get lost in the intoxicating spontaneity of it all and it felt like heaven soaked in salt water. I saw it in Hank, too. There were people bundled up, in wet suits, in bikinis … all grasping at the final feathers on the tails of Ireland’s warm season. The water was chilly and sensational, and if I could have bottled it all up, I would have.
We looked for a little pub in Goleen, but nothing was quite open yet. We grabbed lunch at Along the Way Café Goleen, two yummy pastrami sandwiches, and coffees and a piece of s’mores fudge to go. On our way to our car, we stopped into the visitor’s center, where a lovely woman told us the most scenic route to take to Killarney.
I would be lying if I didn’t tell you there were moments when we, as a couple, doubted the instructions we were given, both by our friend in Goleen and the Polo’s GPS. We ended up on a less-than-one-car-wide lane through a nature preserve, kicking up rocks and dust. And then … without any warning at all, the route spit us out onto the top of the most beautiful valley I’d ever seen. The sun was shining down in streaks over the verdant green scene beside us. A sheep, escaped from the grass below, could have kissed our car as we passed. It was like coming out of the dark into a perfect panoramic portrait painted just for us, and we had no idea it was coming. I suppose no one can really prepare for beauty like that anyway.
We drove through three tunnels, came around a curve and pulled off at Molly Gallivans Cottage and Traditional Farm. This place was like stepping back in time. The second you get out of your car, under the watchful eye of a towering carved druid, you hear traditional Irish music echoing out over a rolling calendar-worthy hillscape.
The cottage is more than 200 years old. At one point, as a widowed woman with many mouths to feed, Molly turned it into an illegal pub. Eventually, she toned it down and started offering tired travelers tea and home cooking to make ends meet. According to the website, “Jeremiah Gallivan was the last of Molly’s descendants to live in the cottage. Jeremiah, a bachelor, farmed the land using the same traditional methods as his ancestors” until his death in 1997. If you saw the living quarters in this place, you would understand why I wanted to start that last sentence with, “Shockingly, …” Let’s just say I doubt Jeremiah was catching the latest Seinfeld when the rest of us were.
Molly’s has a surprisingly large shopping area, bathrooms and the most wonderful, sweet smoky smell. It’s worth the stop to catch your breath and soak up a little Neolithic vibe. If you are planning a visit, their website has more details about hikes, dining and shopping at the visitor’s center, so be sure to check it out.
We were riding a high as we drove into Killarney. Day 4 had been a feast for the eyes and the soul, Ireland was everything we could have dreamed it would be, the world was all pots of gold and rainbows and then … Bam! We almost died. I’m not even joking. Two older women turned right in front of us. Hank had to swerve and slam on the brakes and you guys, I’m telling you, that little VW Polo came through for us in a big way. Between his reaction time and that little car’s insane ability to stop on a dime, I lived to type these words. I needed new underwear, but I lived.
We were still a little shaken when we pulled into Loch Lein Country House after 5. Of all the places we stayed, this was probably one of the only ones I wouldn’t necessarily stay at if we went back. It was lovely, but if you like to walk, it’s just not convenient. Well, I guess that’s not really a good way to put it. It’s kind of perfect if you like to walk … far.
We cleaned up and did what we’d done in the other cities we’d been to, we decided to head out for dinner on foot. There was a place just up the road, but when we got there (after a roadside sheep spotting) it didn’t look very promising. “Let’s just keep walking toward town,” I said. Hank pulled out his phone to see what I was getting us into. While he had his face in the screen, my ankle rolled and Wham-o! I went down onto the gravel on the side of the road, cars driving by. I got up and clapped the dust off my hands. My husband didn’t miss a beat. (I’m a very graceful creature.)
The pads of my palms throbbing and peppered with pebble dents, we soldiered on. It was a not-so-brief 4km walk into town. Thankfully, Hank spotted a nature path across the street, and it made for a nice commute. We saw so many stags and an older couple told us they are all over the park. The wildlife certainly made the brisk walk go faster.
By the time we made it to the main strip in Killarney, our feet were screaming. We saw a cute place down an alley and went with it. Stonechat was yummy. Hank had Irish stew and I had fish and chips, of course, and an awesome strawberry lime cider. The host told us to go to Paddy Sheehan the Grand Bar and Niteclub for traditional Irish music, which is where I think they send everybody after the dinner hour.
There was a group playing traditional instruments and singing toward the front when we got there, so we sat at the modest ledge and small stools along the outside of the room. One thing you should know when you go to Ireland is that much like any venue in any town in any country, getting a table is a sport. A congenial sport, but still a sport. A table opened up and I moved in fast. A couple next to us leaned over and struck up a conversation, eventually joining us in our corner booth. They were from D.C. and going around Ireland for a few days before they headed to Scotland for a wedding and then wrapped up their trip in London. (They were actually there when the queen passed.)
A cover band came on at 11. I forgot how much I love a good cover band and a late night. There was a group of college-age students next to us, playing drinking games and dancing. Time is a funny thing. I can remember being that girl, clumsily moving toward the dance floor like a pinball on its way up to the top bumper. Stepping on strangers’ toes and flashing a drunken, crooked smile to imply it was all in good fun. Screaming every word to every song, which was my favorite song, every song. Dancing at the front, with new friends whose names I never quite got. It was both yesterday and a million years ago. We stayed until about 1 a.m. and caught a cab home, ears buzzing.
Quick reference details for those planning a trip to Ireland
Travel agent – We worked with Maria Lieb at Discovering Ireland. We were given her name by an acquaintance who took a very similar trip to ours. Maria helped us narrow down locations, the duration of our stay in each town, selected and booked all of our hotel and inn rooms, reserved our car and insurance, and provided travel guides. You can reach her by emailing maria@discoveringireland.com.
Transportation – We opted to rent a car so we had flexibility each day. We did the full insurance, including tires, and rented the GPS navigation. In Ireland, compared to the United States, the steering wheel is on the other side of the car, and they drive on the other side of the road, which can be confusing, but you catch on. Also, be prepared … some of the roads are very narrow.
Dates of our trip – While most people go to Ireland in June, July and early August, we were there August 26 – September 5, in an effort to still get decent weather but avoid some of the crowds.
Weather – We were spoiled with the weather while we were there! Temperatures were typically mid- to low-70s during the day and the 60s at night. We only had rain two days.
Money – We primarily used our credit card, which was very easy. They will often ask you if you want to pay in euros or dollars. It’s best to select euros. We also used local ATM machines to get cash, which came in handy for cabs and snacks. In our experience, ATMs were better than exchanging currency at the airport.
Things I packed and didn’t need –
Hair straightener (couldn’t use in any of the outlets)
Good hiking boots and trail shoes (I took these and loved them)
A light backpack for hiking
Crossbody purse (or hip bag) for evenings and days out
Sunglasses
Raincoat
Umbrella
Moisture-wicking layers (tanks, ts and long-sleeve)
Small bottles of hand sanitizer
Hair ties (my hair was in a pony or braided most days)
Good socks
Dramamine (If you get motion sickness, this is life in Ireland)
Notes app or a journal
Fitbit charger (we averaged 22k steps a day)
Phone charger
A mobile hotspot (we rented a wifi candy and picked ours up at the Dublin airport)
GPS
The flight – We flew out of Chicago, which is about two hours from our home. The hardest part was finding a place to park at O’Hare! We got there about three hours early and had plenty of time. The flight was direct to Dublin and took around seven hours – give or take – both ways. I thought Aer Lingus did a tremendous job of keeping everyone fed, comfortable and happy. Take a little something to help you sleep and you’ll be there before you know it! Our experience at the Dublin airport was incredibly positive. Quick and painless!
Please note: During our trip to Ireland, our priorities were hiking, the most beautiful scenery, pubs and live music. We also rented a car. You won’t find much in these posts about fine dining, shopping or the public transportation, though I’m confident there are great resources for these topics elsewhere online. I have also included some resources at the bottom if you’re planning a similar trip.
I woke up and felt like a new woman. It was the type of sleep where you don’t remember your dreams and you’re pretty certain you’re in the same position you fell asleep in. The Baltimore, Co. Cork air agreed with me. We went down to the restaurant for breakfast and slid into a cozy corner booth. Our table already had a tiered tower dressed in freshly baked breads and pastries, yogurt, cheese and homemade jam. I also ordered scrambled eggs and smoked salmon from the kitchen. The coffee was strong and welcome.
Based on my morning Google search, I discovered that whale watching is big in Baltimore. It was another gorgeous day, with sunny skies and a perfect breeze, so we decided to dress for an afternoon on the open ocean and head down to the harbor, which was wallpapered in posters for daily excursions. The first place we called wasn’t going out. The second didn’t have enough people. And the third said the swells were too dangerous.
There was a handful of people gathering around the area where the ferry came in. We learned that it was heading to Sherkin Island, and decided to hop on board, with no idea what was actually on Sherkin Island. Sometimes being a follower really pays off. (Please don’t tell my children I said that.)
Known to locals as The Island of the Arts, Sherkin is approximately three miles long and boasts a population of roughly 100 people. Also of note, it ended up being one of my absolute favorite places we went. It was a simple day, rich with simple pleasures, lots of steps and good conversation, and beauty everywhere you looked.
When you get off the ferry, which basically just drives right up onto shore, you’re greeted by a mossy, stone and shell-covered beach. Everyone else just took off, like they knew exactly where they were going. But we, of course, had no agenda. Hank took a call, so I putzed around the beach for a while, picking up shells and smooth stones to take home to the girls. I loved all of the little limpets, or “boy nipples” as Hank called them, stuck to the sides of rocks.
We walked past the old friary and came to a fork in the road. A farmer, without much time for chitchat, told us to walk toward the beach and the café just beyond it, so we headed that way, down the one-lane road along a stone wall.
The first thing we came upon was the island library, where Sherkin Island resident and artist, Tina Reed, was hosting an exhibit. Her work was vibrant and textured and stunning. The walls were adorned with several pieces painted in Killarney (our next stop on our trip) and a number overlooking the ocean from the Sherkin Island shores. Tina, whose husband gives kayak tours around the island, agreed we should keep heading toward the beach and find the charming café by the water.
Tucked into hedges, tied to gates and secured into stonewalls, colorful tags with haiku poems are scattered all over the island. This is the handy work of The Sherkin Island Haiku Group, who has been meeting ever since 2013. There were too many to read them all, but here are two of my favorites:
When people said, “the beach,” it sounds silly, but we weren’t exactly sure what we were looking for. There were several areas that looked like they held varying depths of water throughout the year, and people could, technically, go sit next to these pools. And they were pretty. We kept walking, past lazy island dogs, rolling pastures and properties likely passed down through generations. And then, we came to the beach, and there was no mistaking it. When I tell you it was one of the most breath-taking sights I’ve ever seen, it’s an insulting understatement. I’ve never been privy to beauty like the points on this planet where the Atlantic meets the fractured fringe of Ireland and its supplementary islands. There’s just no describing it. You have to live it.
These were the first of several cliffs we would see during our time in the country, and you know what they say about your first time … You never forget it.
We walked straight down the rippled sand toward the water, like the tide was pulling us to it. It was unlike any beach I’d been on before. A football field of patterned sand sandwiched between dark, tiered cliffs, with a mountain out in the distance. I took a handful of videos but, when I watched them back later, I succumb to the reality that they just couldn’t convey the view.
After a substantial period of standing in awe, we went back up the sand to the road. In just a few steps, we came upon a second beach and a cliff overlook. There were two tents in the grass near the road, and I joked about the gamble of stepping out for a midnight potty break in this precarious spot near the cliff. But what an amazing place to have your morning coffee.
Tummy’s rumbling, we continued on to grab a bite at the café we’d heard so much about. Sherkin North Shore, located at the most southern point of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, is a center offering lodging, meals and a creative space for group meetings and trainings. On the Monday we stopped by, the door was open, but no one was home.
We retraced our steps and, when we got back to the fork where we’d started, we went the other way and found The Jolly Roger. You could just smell the history in this dim pub. Short stools that didn’t even reach my knees scattered around sticky tables. Everything decked in a warm, blood red palette. We grabbed a pair of ham and cheese toasties, a Bulmer’s for me and beer for Hank and pulled a set of taller stools up to a barrel on the terrace, with the water in the distance. We let the wear of the walk soak in, talking about life and our kids, with red cheeks and the sun now burning our necks. It was here that Hank wrote his own haiku.
Sherkin Island treat. Blisters on both of my feet. Delicious toastie.
Around 4 o’clock, we caught the ferry back to Baltimore and made the game day decision to do the short hike to Baltimore Beacon. The landmark is a cone-shaped “lighthouse” that actually doesn’t light up at all. Rather, it’s painted white as a warning for ships too close to the cliffs.
According to the website Atlas Obscura, “The beacon was constructed after the Irish Rebellion of 1798 at the orders of the British government. It was part of a whole system of lighthouses that peppered Ireland’s shores to form a coastal warning system.
The original lighthouse eventually fell into disrepair, so this current, conical version replaced it in the late 1840s. It’s become a beloved symbol of Baltimore, a small fishing village in County Cork. Locals call the weirdly shaped tower ‘Lot’s Wife,’ after the Biblical woman who was turned into a pillar of salt. Walking around the beacon rewards visitors with stunning views of both the green landscape and rolling sea.” So, there ya go.
It was 3.3 km from the Baltimore Pier to the beacon, and I can tell you, it was worth every step. Every day, we would say, it can’t get any prettier than this. And then, inevitably, it would. There were wildflowers everywhere, little pops of yellow and purple. When we got to the top, I was gob smacked. Across the way, you could see the cliffs on the outer perimeter of Sherkin Island. Look down, and you see that you are also perched on top of a cliff, with water that’s the most lovely, indescribable shade of blue flooding the space between the two.
I Facetimed my mom, who was going through some things at home, and shared the view with her, hoping it would make her smile. What’s amazing is, I don’t like heights. I have nightmares, often, right before I drift off to sleep, where I am falling, or one of my kids is falling. But there, I sat right on the edge of that cliff and felt more alive and less afraid than I ever have. I closed my eyes and listened to the waves and the birds. I felt the sun on my eyelids. I was so at peace.
I smiled the rest of the way back down. When we reached town, we grabbed a table in The Square overlooking the harbor and got menus from La Jolie Brise. We both got pizza and split some chips (French fries). Of course, more cider and beer. I will tell you that this meal did not blow me away, but the view as the sun set out over the water was everything.
A table of girlfriends were in my eye line, and I couldn’t help watching them. They reminded me of me and my friends at that age. Some things are universal, like the way the women in your life will always listen, get excited for you and laugh at the tough bits (particularly those related to the men in your life).
We split a perfect warm apple tart before calling it a night and I felt so full of joy as we made the walk back up the slanted streets to Rolf’s.
Quick reference details for those planning a trip to Ireland
Travel agent – We worked with Maria Lieb at Discovering Ireland. We were given her name by an acquaintance who took a very similar trip to ours. Maria helped us narrow down locations, the duration of our stay in each town, selected and booked all of our hotel and inn rooms, reserved our car and insurance, and provided travel guides. You can reach her by emailing maria@discoveringireland.com.
Transportation – We opted to rent a car so we had flexibility each day. We did the full insurance, including tires, and rented the GPS navigation. In Ireland, compared to the United States, the steering wheel is on the other side of the car, and they drive on the other side of the road, which can be confusing, but you catch on. Also, be prepared … some of the roads are very narrow.
Dates of our trip – While most people go to Ireland in June, July and early August, we were there August 26 – September 5, in an effort to still get decent weather but avoid some of the crowds.
Weather – We were spoiled with the weather while we were there! Temperatures were typically mid- to low-70s during the day and the 60s at night. We only had rain two days.
Money – We primarily used our credit card, which was very easy. They will often ask you if you want to pay in euros or dollars. It’s best to select euros. We also used local ATM machines to get cash, which came in handy for cabs and snacks. In our experience, ATMs were better than exchanging currency at the airport.
Things I packed and didn’t need –
Hair straightener (couldn’t use in any of the outlets)
Good hiking boots and trail shoes (I took these and loved them)
A light backpack for hiking
Crossbody purse (or hip bag) for evenings and days out
Sunglasses
Raincoat
Umbrella
Moisture-wicking layers (tanks, ts and long-sleeve)
Small bottles of hand sanitizer
Hair ties (my hair was in a pony or braided most days)
Good socks
Dramamine (If you get motion sickness, this is life in Ireland)
Notes app or a journal
Fitbit charger (we averaged 22k steps a day)
Phone charger
A mobile hotspot (we rented a wifi candy and picked ours up at the Dublin airport)
GPS
The flight – We flew out of Chicago, which is about two hours from our home. The hardest part was finding a place to park at O’Hare! We got there about three hours early and had plenty of time. The flight was direct to Dublin and took around seven hours – give or take – both ways. I thought Aer Lingus did a tremendous job of keeping everyone fed, comfortable and happy. Take a little something to help you sleep and you’ll be there before you know it! Our experience at the Dublin airport was incredibly positive. Quick and painless!
Please note: During our trip to Ireland, our priorities were hiking, the most beautiful scenery, pubs and live music. We also rented a car. You won’t find much in these posts about fine dining, shopping or the public transportation, though I’m confident there are great resources for these topics elsewhere online. I have also included some resources at the bottom if you’re planning a similar trip.
Adequately rested after a marathon Day 1, we woke up around 8 a.m., ready to see where the day would take us. I’d read good things about a breakfast place called The Fig Tree, but it didn’t open for another two hours. Simply by default, and perhaps divine intervention, we ended up at Café la Coco.
I loved absolutely everything about this meal, from the pottery our food came in, to the immersive setting. We sat outside and took in the bustle of a Sunday morning in Kilkenny. Young workers moving trash from the night before into dumpsters locked away behind brightly colored sliding doors. Twenty-somethings in messy buns stumbling down for a quick coffee and pastry. Those a decade or two up walking the dogs, pushing a stroller, running errands.
We both ordered breakfast sandwiches and coffee, a latte for me and an Americano for my date. While ours were both equally delicious, I have to say, our neighbor had the Bacon and Maple Pancakes and they looked insanely good. I actually saw him running his finger around the bowl to lick it clean, which is quite the endorsement, universally. He was an older gentleman, a marathoner, from Northern Ireland. In fact, he can “see Scotland from his doorstep.” I know this because in Ireland, unlike many places, the charming countrymen and women love to strike up a conversation. In a last-minute stroke of genius, we ordered a blueberry lemon scone to go.
On our stroll back to the hotel to finish packing, we realized how nice it is to walk to and from a meal. In our town, it would be a real roll of the dice to commute on foot. But in most of the towns we visited, it was easy to hoof it, and it just felt great. I think we largely underestimate the benefits of a casual pre- and post-meal jaunt.
Kilkenny to Blarney Castle and Gardens
Before we left, Hank and I both agreed we would be perfectly fine with skipping the “touristy” attractions in order to leave more room for hiking and exploring. And we honestly didn’t intend to do the whole Blarney experience. But we did, and I gotta tell ya, it was pretty freaking cool.
Initially, we planned on going to a different area, but as we were driving and converting kilometers to miles, Hank realized it was going to put us at our hotel pretty late that evening. So, I picked up the trusty GPS and typed in the only name I recognized from the signs: Blarney. (Did I mention we didn’t really have a solid itinerary?) We’ll just take a quick look, since we’re here, we thought.
We purchased tickets and two ice cream comes and spent the next few hours walking around the majestic Blarney Gardens. The wait to kiss the stone was an hour long and, call me COVID-crazy, but I just didn’t have a burning desire to match lips with hundreds of my newest acquaintances, so we skipped it. But it didn’t take anything away from the experience.
The grounds have every type of tree you can imagine and tout some of the tallest in Ireland. There’s even a tree – a Western Red Cedar – that appears to have grown two new trees. (See picture for reference, it’s so hard to explain.) Everything is meticulous and vibrant, with names like the Carnivorous Courtyard and Poison Garden.
It was while poking around Blarney House, a historic residence on the grounds, when I thought I saw Daniel Radcliffe with another gentleman and two small children. This was on the heels of Hank thinking Paul Mescal from “Normal People” checked us into Hotel Kilkenny the night before. We were painfully wrong, on both accounts.
Of everything we saw, waterfalls and giant ferns and floral archways, my two favorite parts of Blarney Gardens were the Wishing Steps and the Seven Sisters, mostly because I just love a good legend. According to the sign, any believer with a wish in their heart who closes their eyes and walks first forward, then backward up the Wishing Steps will have their dream come true. I am notoriously clumsy with both eyes open, so I did not opt for the full immersion here, but I did watch a couple go through the ritual and it made me smile. And I’d be lying if I didn’t say I recited a little wish to myself as I ascended the ancient stairway.
The Seven Sisters story gave me goosebumps. Here is the version from the website: “Just northeast of the Castle can be found a circle of nine standing stones, two of which have fallen. It is said that in medieval times a chieftain who had two young sons and seven daughters took his sons on their first battle against a troublesome neighbour who was constantly raiding his cattle. The chieftain was victorious in the battle but at great cost: both his sons were killed. Returning to his cattle with his troops and the bodies of his sons, he stopped at this familiar spot and to mark the death of his sons the grieving chieftain ordered his men to knock over two of the stones.”
As a mother, I mean … it just tears ya up. Even if it is just a circle of rocks. Overall, I would say the Blarney experience is worth the trip, particularly if the sun is shining and you’ve got good walking shoes.
Blarney Castle and Gardens to Baltimore, County Cork
It was roughly 90 minutes from the Blarney grounds to our destination for the evening, Baltimore, County Cork. Listen to me when I say that this was the longest 90 minutes of. my. life.
Allow me, if you will, to paint a picture for you … Imagine being strapped into a chair that is barreling along a hedge at 60 mph. Every once in a while, a box truck, or a van or a greedy compact car or, in the worst of worst-case scenarios, a semi, comes flying around a curve and you get to dip into the hedge and find out if there’s, say, a stonewall hiding behind the shrubs. Between the Polo’s hyper-sensitive brakes, my husband’s unscratched itch to be a racecar driver and my natural tendency to get sick as hell on anything that moves, it was a real ten-layer trifle of terrifying. My forearm started to spasm I was gripping the door handle so tight. The commute was gorgeous. Absolutely gut-wrenching. But gorgeous. But the true saving grace was that scone. Oh, that beautiful scone. When has a well-made pastry not been able to cure the woes of the world, I ask you?
Coming into Baltimore is what I imagine the coastal areas in New England are like, though I’ve never been. Boats tethered and spaced in the harbor, bobbing in the last minutes of the day’s sunlight. Streets that slant and build in activity until they crescendo down by the water, the main attraction.
We pulled into Rolf’s Country House & Restaurant around dinnertime. A pair of gentlemen helped us get our hefty suitcases up into our room (“Do you have Grandma in here?” one of them joked) and brought us crisps (potato chips) and prosecco, which made me instantly fall in love with them. This was by far my favorite of the places we stayed. Not just because they fed me carbs, but the rooms, of which there are only 10, are beautiful.
We downed our bubbles, showered and walked down toward the harbor to find dinner. There was live music close to the water, but nowhere to sit, so we backtracked a bit to The Algier’s Inn. Fate, again took a hand. This was one of my top meals for the whole trip. At the suggestion of our absolutely adorable waitress, I went for the fried fish sandwich and skinny fries, paired with a lovely local cider. I still have dreams about this sandwich. The fish was perfectly breaded and crispy, dressed in the yummiest sauce. Hank had a burger and a West Cork IPA, brewed by one of the only female brewers in Ireland (#girldad), who also happened to be helping out at Algier’s that very evening. (So, we did have at least one legitimate celebrity sighting.)
After three different servers professed their love for the Sticky Toffee Pudding, we basically had to give it a go, and it was delicious. After we said we were done, the same saint waitress who recommended the fish, demonstrated the proper way to scrape up the remaining gooey bits and lick the spoon clean. As Sticky Toffee virgins, we had no clue how dedicated this dessert fan base is. I’ve got nothin’ but respect for the bowl scrapers out there.
Full and happy, we walked back up the slanted streets to Rolf’s, on top of the hill. It got pretty dark in some spots, so we picked up the pace and burned off some pudding. I don’t know if it was all of the walking, or the jetlag finally catching up with me, or my satiated belly or, I’d like to think, the lovely breeze coming off the water and through our open window, but I slept like a baby that night. A fat, insanely joyful baby.
Quick reference details for those planning a trip to Ireland
Travel agent – We worked with Maria Lieb at Discovering Ireland. We were given her name by an acquaintance who took a very similar trip to ours. Maria helped us narrow down locations, the duration of our stay in each town, selected and booked all of our hotel and inn rooms, reserved our car and insurance, and provided travel guides. You can reach her by emailing maria@discoveringireland.com.
Transportation – We opted to rent a car so we had flexibility each day. We did the full insurance, including tires, and rented the GPS navigation. In Ireland, compared to the United States, the steering wheel is on the other side of the car, and they drive on the other side of the road, which can be confusing, but you catch on. Also, be prepared … some of the roads are very narrow.
Dates of our trip – While most people go to Ireland in June, July and early August, we were there August 26 – September 5, in an effort to still get decent weather but avoid some of the crowds.
Weather – We were spoiled with the weather while we were there! Temperatures were typically mid- to low-70s during the day and the 60s at night. We only had rain two days.
Money – We primarily used our credit card, which was very easy. They will often ask you if you want to pay in euros or dollars. It’s best to select euros. We also used local ATM machines to get cash, which came in handy for cabs and snacks. In our experience, ATMs were better than exchanging currency at the airport.
Things I packed and didn’t need –
Hair straightener (couldn’t use in any of the outlets)
Good hiking boots and trail shoes (I took these and loved them)
A light backpack for hiking
Crossbody purse (or hip bag) for evenings and days out
Sunglasses
Raincoat
Umbrella
Moisture-wicking layers (tanks, ts and long-sleeve)
Small bottles of hand sanitizer
Hair ties (my hair was in a pony or braided most days)
Good socks
Dramamine (If you get motion sickness, this is life in Ireland)
Notes app or a journal
Fitbit charger (we averaged 22k steps a day)
Phone charger
A mobile hotspot (we rented a wifi candy and picked ours up at the Dublin airport)
GPS
The flight – We flew out of Chicago, which is about two hours from our home. The hardest part was finding a place to park at O’Hare! We got there about three hours early and had plenty of time. The flight was direct to Dublin and took around seven hours – give or take – both ways. I thought Aer Lingus did a tremendous job of keeping everyone fed, comfortable and happy. Take a little something to help you sleep and you’ll be there before you know it! Our experience at the Dublin airport was incredibly positive. Quick and painless!
Please note: During our trip to Ireland, our priorities were hiking, the most beautiful scenery, pubs and live music. We also rented a car. You won’t find much in these posts about fine dining, shopping or the public transportation, though I’m confident there are great resources for these topics elsewhere online. I have also included some resources at the bottom if you’re planning a similar trip.
I have wanted to go to Ireland forever. No, I don’t have any familial ties, I just think it’s enchanting. The mossy cliffs, the baby sheep bouncing across pastures, the rolling valleys showcasing every shade of green the human eye has ever seen. A few years ago, Hank and I took the girls to a cabin in southern Indiana. One of the owners was from Ireland and I mentioned how a visit was on my bucket list. “It’s the closest thing there is to heaven on earth,” she said.
We decided we would never actually go unless we picked a date. This fall marks our 15th wedding anniversary and my 40th trip around the sun, so 2022 was the big winner. An acquaintance of Hank’s happened to mention that her and her husband had gone and had a great experience. She gave us the name of her travel agent (linked and listed below) and things started becoming official.
Then, on August 16, ten days before we were scheduled to head toward heaven, I started to feel … off. After more than two years of dodging the inevitable, I tested positive for COVID. Even more inconvenient, Hank followed in my footsteps on Friday, the 19th. That sassy little virus took us down! There’s definitely a 48-hour period during that week that I just don’t remember. We quarantined, we pushed fluids, we pulled out our laptops and we started planning out hikes. Because, gosh dang it, nothing … and I mean, nothing, was going to get in the way of the trip I’d been dreaming of for my entire adult life. Not Omicron. Not any of his punk little sibling strains. Nothing.
The day before we left, I finally got a negative test and Hank started to turn the corner. We got a pack of these breathable little buddies, had our youngest sit on our giant suitcases, zipped ‘em, tipped ‘em and got ready to head to Chicago.
Chicago to Dublin
Honestly, the hardest part of the flight to Dublin was navigating Chicago O’Hare International Airport. The lot we wanted was full, so we were directed to another parking garage, which we couldn’t find and knew would be more expensive. Absolutely everything was under construction. It’s just crazy there! Big airports like that remind me of hectic cities and send my anxiety into the rafters. The people watching is on point though. (Highlight: A young gal wearing a legit bra as a shirt, a la Seinfeld’s “The Bra-less Wonder”.)
I was really impressed with Aer Lingus®. Each passenger got a blanket, pillow and adorable little earbuds with clovers on them. I popped two regular strength Dramamine and turned on “And Just Like That …” We were a bit delayed taking off, so the pilot announced we would be making up for it in the air. They brought around a snack, and I was still awake. Another episode of Carrie, Miranda and Charlotte. Then a meal. I was still awake. Before I knew it, we were eating breakfast sandwiches and the pilot was getting the cabin ready for landing. I never slept. Neither did Hank.
Breakfast in Dublin
We left Chicago around 3 p.m. their time and landed in Dublin at 5 a.m. their time. The Saturday morning sun was piercing through the broad windows of the Dublin airport as we made our way through customs and to baggage claim. We picked up our Wi-Fi candy (portable Wi-Fi hotspot) on the lower level and went to get our rental car. This was the moment Hank had been dreading for months. He wouldn’t say it, but I could tell.
Shockingly, rental car places just give you the keys to a car and a little GPS screen and wish you all the best on your holiday. You know, the holiday you’re having in a country where everything from a vehicular standpoint is done entirely backwards. We forced our gigantic stuffed suitcases into the back seat and rear hatch – after we figured out how to open it – and climbed into the VW Polo. We spent a little time in that parking garage, as Hank tried to familiarize himself with the lights, the seat (initially pressing him up into the steering wheel), the buttons. She was a sweet little foreign girl. And she was fully covered in insurance and ours for the next ten days.
I did a quick search for the best breakfast in Dublin and found a place called Lemon Jelly Café with a thirst trap photo of a foamy latte. I punched it in and we got on the highway. Initially, it all felt a little wild. Sitting in the driver’s seat, but not driving. Seeing my husband adjust and respond in real time. At one point, I looked up and saw a spider hanging over his head. My instinct was to swing it at it like a savage killer. Hank couldn’t even look at what I was doing, he was so zoned in. But it was when we got off the highway that the real fun started.
We definitely drove in some circles, per the GPS. “Left to left,” Hank kept saying out loud as he rotated the steering wheel. We only made one major mistake though, when we turned onto a street with rails and realized no car was meant to be there. Would a train come barreling toward us? Who knew! What an adventure!
Breakfast at Lemon Jelly Cafe in Dublin
Eventually, we found a parking garage near where we believed Lemon Jelly to be and got out to walk. I got lemon crepes and sourdough toast, and Hank went for the traditional Irish breakfast, for the first and only time. The coffee lived up to the hype.
Time awake: 23 hours
Dublin to Brandon Hill
We left Dublin and headed toward Freaghana, County Kilkenny, and the trail head for the Brandon Hill summit walk, a suggestion we’d come across when we were sequestered and scrolling. The drive was just over two hours. Hank used AllTrails to find the best place to pick up the trail and we punched it into the GPS. When we initially exited the highway, Hank made a comment about how the roads were a little narrow. As we followed the prompts and the sparse signs for Brandon Hill, navigating our way to carpark A, deer park, the pavement kept shrinking, until we were down to a single lane. No shoulder. Branches and slumping vines battering the sides of the Polo.
“This can’t be right,” Hank said. And then a few minutes later, “I mean, this just can’t be right.”
This was our first taste of the bittersweet side of chasing down the best trails. Is a car coming down the mountain? Maybe! What a ride! When they come around the corner will they stop and back up or will we have to find a way? We’ll have to wait and see! The surprises are endless!
After the longest half mile of our lives, we came across a house. There were clothes on the line and vehicles everywhere. A gate was propped open just past the yard so we, hesitantly proceeded through. A few seconds later, Hank stopped.
He came back to the chorus. “This can’t be right.”
A car stopped behind the Polo and I ran back. “Hey! I’m sorry, but I think we’re lost. We’re trying to get to the trailhead for Brandon Hill.”
“Yup!” the woman in the passenger seat smiled. “This is just Ireland roads!”
OK, then. Giddy up!
Brandon Hill, Co. Kilkenny
We came to the carpark shortly after and changed into our hiking shoes. A few young families were standing around the map, strategizing; the dads smoking cigarettes in preparation. Brandon Hill is a loop, up a gravel road, through a shaded pine passing and then either straight up to the summit, or a more gradual pebble-packed path. To reach the top is to climb the highest mountain in Co. Kilkenny at 1,690 ft.
We opted for the direct path on the way up. The summit is covered in these purple plants I’ve spent a good amount of time Googling and have officially decided to list as furze and heather, with 70% confidence. Whatever the flowers are, they blanket the top of the mountain, and bees absolutely love them. A constant buzzing and my labored breaths were the only instruments in the orchestra as we trudged up to the large cross at the top.
“You’re almost there,” Hank kept taunting. We weren’t.
And then we were. The 360-degree view from the peak of Brandon Hill is breathtaking. The patchwork quilt of pastures, divided neatly by historic stonewalls and orderly bushes. The sand-hued fields of barley, large boulders peppered across the horizon. The sky was a brilliant royal blue, streaked in wispy clouds. After decades of dreaming about these views, lusting after the Wild Atlantic Way, I was here, standing on top of a mountain. And I cried.
Time awake: 29 hours
Brandon Hill to Kilkenny
We played chicken with a tractor on our drive back down from the trailhead. “I just drove a quarter mile in reverse on a one-lane mountainside on the wrong side of the car in Ireland,” Hank commented after finding a field to duck into so they could pass.
The roads eventually returned to two lanes as we made our way to HotelKilkenny. The first thing I noticed when we finally got to our room was that there was no air conditioning. (American girl problems.) It was so stifling as we unpacked and got situated. We both knew that if we gave in to the temptress covered in fresh sheets and pillows, we’d never leave the room, so we quickly showered and headed out for dinner.
Kilkenny, Ireland
“How do we get to the restaurants?” I asked a lady at the front desk.
“Oh, it’s easy,” she said. “Just turn right and walk until you see the castle.” Something you don’t hear every day.
The area around KilkennyCastle is charming. Rows of brightly colored shops, art boutiques and restaurants punctuated with vibrant flower boxes are the perfect backdrop for pedestrians, coming and going, in and out. Hank remembered he needed distilled water for his CPAP, so we ducked into a pharmacy before dinner.
First, I must say that the individuals who work in pharmacies in Ireland are the most dedicated, caring people. They ask questions and they genuinely want to heal what’s ailing you. This wasn’t your typical impersonal Walgreens or CVS interaction. Upon our request, the pharmacist came back with a jug of distilled water and rang it up. It was $17. Hank looked at her, blinking. Turns out, distilled water is a hot commodity in Ireland and comes with the price tag to prove it. Hank referred to it as his “liquid gold” the rest of the trip.
We came over the bridge and saw Matt the Millers Bar & Restaurant and remembered the recommendation from a friend. We sat on the second level and ordered drinks immediately, an Outcider for me, Smithwicks for Hank. Now, let me offer you an insider tip that my husband got too late into our trip. One that will make this whole blog post worth your time. The “h” and “w” in Smithwicks are silent. So, as a kind-hearted bartender finally told Hank on the seventh night of our epic pub crawl, it is pronounced “Smiticks” or “Smih-dicks.” You’re welcome. I got fish and chips (the first of many) and my date rolled the dice on a chicken dish with black pudding. Everything was good, but honestly, we were too punchy to really absorb much.
Our sweet waitress invited us to come back for the DJ. “Where you’re sitting will be the dance floor and he’ll go till 3 a.m.” We smiled graciously, knowing we’d already be asleep back at Hotel Kilkenny by the time his fingers touched the knobs. She also told us about her three jobs and the housing crisis in Ireland. How expensive things had become and how much people were struggling. This theme in conversation, along with the breaded haddock, would become a trend for our trip.
Hen parties came in, sloppy and sublime. We congratulated a bride-to-be and we gushed a bit over each other the way buzzed up women do. Everyone wished us the best holiday, and we cashed out so we could go cash out.
We had to stop by Kilkenny Castle since we passed it on our walk back to the hotel. Hank was a history major, so the thought of moats and windows placed strategically for shooting bows, and dungeons and medieval lore made him light up like a Christmas tree.
We were zombies by the time the elevator opened to our floor. I fell into bed and immediately started sweating. I didn’t get much sleep, but we had made it.
Total wake time: 35 hours
Quick reference details for those planning a trip to Ireland
Travel agent – We worked with Maria Lieb at Discovering Ireland. We were given her name by an acquaintance who took a very similar trip to ours. Maria helped us narrow down locations, the duration of our stay in each town, selected and booked all of our hotel and inn rooms, reserved our car and insurance, and provided travel guides. You can reach her by emailing maria@discoveringireland.com.
Transportation – We opted to rent a car so we had flexibility each day. We did the full insurance, including tires, and rented the GPS navigation. In Ireland, compared to the United States, the steering wheel is on the other side of the car, and they drive on the other side of the road, which can be confusing, but you catch on. Also, be prepared … some of the roads are very narrow.
Dates of our trip – While most people go to Ireland in June, July and early August, we were there August 26 – September 5, in an effort to still get decent weather but avoid some of the crowds.
Weather – We were spoiled with the weather while we were there! Temperatures were typically mid- to low-70s during the day and the 60s at night. We only had rain two days.
Money – We primarily used our credit card, which was very easy. They will often ask you if you want to pay in euros or dollars. It’s best to select euros. We also used local ATM machines to get cash, which came in handy for cabs and snacks. In our experience, ATMs were better than exchanging currency at the airport.
Things I packed and didn’t need –
Hair straightener (couldn’t use in any of the outlets)
Good hiking boots and trail shoes (I took these and loved them)
A light backpack for hiking
Crossbody purse (or hip bag) for evenings and days out
Sunglasses
Raincoat
Umbrella
Moisture-wicking layers (tanks, ts and long-sleeve)
Small bottles of hand sanitizer
Hair ties (my hair was in a pony or braided most days)
Good socks
Dramamine (If you get motion sickness, this is life in Ireland)
Notes app or a journal
Fitbit charger (we averaged 22k steps a day)
Phone charger
A mobile hotspot (we rented a wifi candy and picked ours up at the Dublin airport)
GPS
The flight – We flew out of Chicago, which is about two hours from our home. The hardest part was finding a place to park at O’Hare! We got there about three hours early and had plenty of time. The flight was direct to Dublin and took around seven hours – give or take – both ways. I thought Aer Lingus did a tremendous job of keeping everyone fed, comfortable and happy. Take a little something to help you sleep and you’ll be there before you know it! Our experience at the Dublin airport was incredibly positive. Quick and painless!
My friend Kim is so incredibly brave. Always has been. For the entirety of the 25 years we’ve been close friends, and the few years before that when she was a light flickering in my periphery, her confidence has been the brightest of her impressive attributes. She was the spark and the kindling and the gasoline to so many of the crazy situations we got into as teenagers, and we loved her for it. If they still printed encyclopedias, and people still read actual paper books, and someone flipped to the hypothetical section on tenacity, you would find a picture of my friend Kim. That’s how much chutzpah this girl has.
Throughout high school, Kim talked about becoming a professional actor. She was going to a big city, and she was going to get on stages, and she was going to lose herself in characters. And, true to form, she did. First in Chicago, then in New York and eventually in Los Angeles. A few of us actually flew out once to see two of her plays, and it was like watching a stranger soaking up their last day on Earth. The girl I knew completely disappeared into a tornado of humor and sorrow and contagious expressions. Homegirl left shreds of her soul all over that stage. Being witness to someone – anyone – doing what they truly love is such an authentic exchange.
But, I’m going down a rabbit hole …
Anyway, every six months or so, Kim would blow through our lives with an exciting update, some glamorous and some just juicy.
Hey guys! I’m playing a badass female boxer, here’s a clip. We’re crowd funding it and it’s going to be insane! [Insert trailer featuring Kim in an ice bath with a black eye looking fierce as hell.]
My boyfriend was on [an insanely popular sitcom that I won’t mention for privacy purposes, but it was one of my favorites then and now and I completely lost my mind]. Everyone was really nice, I guess.
I’m shopping a pilot!
You guys won’t believe whose house I’m cleaning. [Again, omitting the celebrity’s name to protect his privacy, but this was a gooooood one, and a highlight in a series of many entertaining texts we got during her stint making extra cash picking up random jobs through TaskRabbit in L.A.]
My new apartment has a giant tree coming through the patio and a bunk bed. I’m calling it the tree fort.
The last text came only a few months ago. In fact, she just flew out, with her entire life packed in half a dozen suitcases, plus her dog and cat, this week.
Kim was able to spend several weeks in Indiana before she officially moved, and it was a dream. I can’t tell you what a gift it is to reconnect with someone who holds space in so much of your history. And believe me, my high school girlfriends don’t just know where the bodies are buried, they have the blisters from shoveling. We did a lot of reminiscing, but we also had these rich, beautiful conversations about life and the future.
And I just couldn’t stop saying, “I think you are so brave.”
But to Kim, it was just a choice. A huge choice in the eyes of most, but in essence, for her it was a conscious shift. She wasn’t happy with her circumstances, she had nothing tethering her to L.A. or the U.S., so she chose to take a leap. And that’s part of what has always made her such a magnetic presence for me. She’s nonconformist, and highly passionate about pursuing joy, which I find to be rare and refreshing these days. There were a million things that went into her decision, but ultimately, she wanted to be somewhere where she felt awake and inspired and seen and heard. And I think she will feel all of those things in her new home, where she’s sipping a beer and unpacking as we speak.
What it means to be brave
If you’ve been here before, you know that I’m introspective to a fault. Watching someone I love maneuver through such a monumental change in her life, naturally made me question my own bravery.
Do I have the fortitude to chase down my dreams or am I too comfortable?
The snow globe where my soul had been taking a siesta was suddenly shaking violently, flurries of self-doubt dancing chaotically in my limbic system. It was unsettling and, if I’m being honest, distressing for me to admit that my friend’s milestone move triggered such a negative reaction inside me. Not toward her by any means. No, toward her I felt … what … jealousy, no … resentment, nah … whatever resides at the interaction of envy and encouraged, that’s what I felt. An awakening. It’s strange how seeing one person’s backbone exposed makes you want to sit up straighter.
The more Kimmy shared about her plans, the more my thirst for bravery grew. And the more that concept marinated, the more acute my ability to spot courageous gestures became. Of course, just like with all positive qualities, it was easier to see it in others first.
There is so much bravery among my friends, who have tried new things, fought for the family they wanted, walked away from toxic relationships, gone to therapy, shared what they learned in therapy, quit their job when they weren’t compensated or recognized fairly, taken the medication, said “yes,” admitted something was broken, started businesses, put in for the promotion, been vulnerable, said “no,” asked for what they deserve and lifted other women up.
And in my three little chicks, who have gone on stages, taken big swings, decided not to say the hurtful thing just to get a cheap laugh, fought for the open spot, gone a different way, shared their art, started conversations with strangers who interested them and dared to see people for who they actually are rather than who others say they are.
Last year, I read “Bravey” by Olympian Alexi Pappas. She wrote so many phenomenal little nuggets about what it means to be brave and to work hard for your dreams, but one thing she said is so applicable here:
“Being a hero is a choice you can make, not a cape someone else will drape over you. You make your own cape.”
I always thought that some people were just brave, while others were not. But if you really pay attention, we’re all doing brave things every day, all the time. My choices may not have the flash and boom of relocating to Southwestern Europe, but they come with a modest cape all the same. And so do yours. They feel like nothing when we treat them like nothing, and we need to stop doing that or we’ll never feel empowered. Any decision that feeds joy, brings positive change, feels scary or breaks a cycle is truly a display of bravery. And that’s something to be proud of.
Inspired by my friend Kim, I challenged myself to come up with five examples of how I’ve been brave so far this year, and I’d encourage you to do the same.
I’ve pushed my aging body to get stronger.
I finally booked a trip to Ireland.
I’ve kept up with my six-month cleanings in spite of my raging dental anxiety. (If you know, you know.)
I’ve been more honest and direct, and less passive-aggressive.
I set boundaries in relationships that were not serving me and stuck to them.
Now you! I’ll wait …
The older I get the more certain I am that people come and go from your life when they’re supposed to, and if you’re lucky the really good ones never truly leave you. Maybe you have a Kim in your life; A bright light who emboldens you or stirs something inside of you or reminds you to pull your cape out of the closet and entertain the notion of something bigger. Because you’re great and why not?
Kimmy is still the spark and the kindling and the gasoline, but these days, her adventures are fueling my desire for my own. Standing close to her flame is helping mine burn brighter and reminding me to stop and recognize how amazing it can feel to play with fire every once in a while. To take a chance or step forward when my instinct is to step back.
I’ll leave you with one other quote from “Bravey,” and the assurance that you are killin’ it, whether you’re contemplating or confronting something massive or just making it through another day of summer vacation as a working parent:
“You might be sad or happy or chasing a dream or still trying to find one, but whatever you are, you are the truth. Right now, you are perfect.”
Earlier this week, I took a master class in the Calm app on radical compassion, taught by Tara Brach. She talked about “the trance of unworthiness,” a nearly constant state of self-judgment, fear and doubt that a lot of us, if not all of us, live with every day.
For you, the trance might be a little punk whisper saying you don’t deserve to take a 30-minute walk until the laundry is folded, or of course that recipe you tried didn’t work. They never do. I usually come to in the trance when I step on a scale or forget the girls had pajama day, which was rescheduled because of a snow day, which was supposed to be a makeup day for parent-teacher conferences, or some such other earth-shattering observance I neglected to put on the Google calendar.
I won’t spoil the rest of the class for you in case you ever decide to explore Tara’s work for yourself, but there was something she said during the course that I haven’t been able to shake since I heard it. She asked, “Who would you be if you didn’t think something was wrong with you?” I’ve heard similar prompts. “Who were you before the world told you who you should be?” for example.
It’s such an interesting question to explore. Who would you be if you didn’t think something was wrong with you? What would that look like? Feel like?
The other sobering piece of that question is that it forces you to confront the things that you think are wrong with you, and we all have them. I know so many people who, when prompted, could generate an entire notebook of shortcomings about themselves, but maybe just a few lines of positives. We all think we’re riddled with flaws.
I don’t know about you, but my anxiety about the world has never been higher. Things feel fragile and shaky, and it has hurled me into a dark inner dialogue. If, God forbid, something were to happen, did I live as my truest self? Did I chase joy? Did I explore and stand in awe as much I would like to? Did I love as hard and honestly as I could? Or did I squander my experience imprisoned by my perceived imperfections?
Our society is interesting, in that we put so much emphasis on the grind. Being busy is seen as a badge of honor and respect. Being thin because you have discipline, or you scheduled yourself right through lunch isn’t a red flag. I’m as guilty as the next person when it comes to prioritizing work over a walk or idolizing every body shape but my own. But isn’t constantly striving for what we are not just another form of keeping ourselves busy? Preoccupied with negative thoughts? Sauntering along in the trance of unworthiness?
If no one told me or showed me or suggested that I needed to be smaller, more organized, make more money, have a bigger, cleaner house, put my children on the travel team, get on tiktok, make a reel, read 50 books a year, wear midrise skinny jeans, meditate every morning, give up coffee for matcha, exfoliate, sleep more, do more, be more, keep every single ball in the air without missing a six-month dental cleaning, who the hell would I be?
In the last two years, one of the most spoken terms has got to be, “You’re muted.” And, to be honest, that’s a little bit what the trance of unworthiness feels like to me. Like I’m muted. I’m so busy trying to maintain what I have that I’m not really reaching for what I want or think could be.
If I channeled the energy that I exhaust stewing about petty exchanges, my body, my to-do list, relationships that no longer serve me in a healthy way, into big love, big adventures, big, deep, life-giving breaths, I think I might start to break the trance. I might find my voice again.
The truth is – and I’m speaking to myself here, too – there’s nothing wrong with any of us, aside from our belief that our flaws make us unworthy or less lovable.
A body is just the shell of a soul, and it’s that soul that matters. A house is just a shelter for a family, and it’s the love under the roof that matters. Money is a means to more, but it can’t buy the joy that makes it all worthwhile. The measuring stick that we use to gauge beauty, success, and status is subjective. I can define when I feel beautiful, successful and happy.
Self-compassion is hearing the negative, dark voice inside and then offering a counter perspective. A kinder perspective. I’m working on it, being nicer to myself and refocusing my energy. Life’s just too short to walk around in a trance. Let’s wake up.
This month, my parents are celebrating 50 years of marriage. People, that is 18,250 days, 54,750 meals, 13,035 episodes of Jeopardy and 350 major holidays together. Just shy of a 15-year union myself, I’ve had a tablespoon-size serving of the subtle art of sharing a life with another human, so I can admire the marathon these two kids have conquered.
Mom and Dad knew each other for several years before they began dating. But once they started smoochin’ it didn’t take long for them to decide to tie the knot. Six months, maybe. They had a small, simple ceremony on – fun fact – the same day my mom’s father got remarried. (Less than ideal, I’d say.) Their color was red, a bold choice for a bold romance. They had their reception in the church basement and danced off to the theme from “Love Story.”
The road has not always been smooth for my parents. In the beginning they literally collected change in a piggy bank so they could go out for dinner once every few months. My father had two heart attacks at a very young age, one shortly after starting his own business and with a fresh-faced baby at home (this girl!). Their parents passed. Mom battled and beat cancer. But truthfully, these hurdles jumped from the page like boogie men in an otherwise entertaining and joyful pop-up book.
Because my folks truly, sickeningly adore each other. I’ve had a front row seat for 40 of the 50 years they’ve been tethered, and I can tell you, they’re pretty much masters at the whole till-death-do-us-part promise thing. They understood the assignment.
Being witness to two people who are playing the long game definitely gives you some perspective on how to navigate your own marriage. In honor of my parents’ 50th wedding anniversary, I want to share with you a short list of the lessons I’ve taken note of from the observation deck over the last five decades.
Clearly, you’re nuts.
My parents are almost always together. They work together, they live together, they eat and sleep together. And yet, their views of a reality they predominantly share for all intents and purposes, often differ. Mom always claims she told Dad about an event or appointment, but he never seems clued in. He attributes this to his ability to blend into the background, or, as he puts it, live as a mushroom who’s kept in the dark and fed shit. Mom attributes it to his senior brain.
My father’s ability to recall names and dates from the past is insane, but often comes after an exhaustive back-and-forth with my mom. Watching the two of them retrace their steps to an old colleague or classmate is how I imagine charades play out at a retirement home. We’re gonna get where we’re going, but it might take a while.
We always say that Mom and Dad need a reality show, though I’m not entirely sure who the target demographic would be there. They get themselves into the wildest situations and do the most ridiculous things. Dad’s known to fight people in his sleep to the point where he flips himself out of bed. He hikes his jeans up to his nipples and can recite every stupid commercial and dirty poem from his youth without prompting.
But his bride isn’t much better. In fact, one might argue she would be the star of the reality show. My brother calls Mom “America’s treasure.” You guys, this woman once ran from her shoelace because she thought it was a snake. She has fallen, tripped, slid, tumbled, collapsed, faceplanted on and over every surface you can imagine. Why she wasn’t, in a twist of poetic irony, named Grace, we’ll never know.
And when you put these two crazies together, it’s comedic dynamite. They love music, and if you’re ever privy to one of their private performances, you’ll notice they start at a low, synchronized hum before eventually building to a bold chorus, Mom always on a 5-second delay because she really doesn’t know the words and thinks that, by coming in late, none of us will notice.
And God help me, I just love ‘em to pieces for all of it. They are my trail mix of choice; full of nuts with plenty of sweet stuff sprinkled in.
Let’s be honest, the cheese is slowly sliding off of all of our crackers. I don’t trust a person who doesn’t look for their sunglasses for an hour only to discover them on their head. Who doesn’t walk a lap with their skirt tucked into their pantyhose or get to work to discover their coffee mug took a ride on the roof. Marriage is about running your freak flag up the pole and having your partner salute, knowing you’re going to salute right back.
Everyone has bodies buried in the backyard.
Hitch yourself to someone who knows where they are, doesn’t care and doesn’t dig them up during a fight. That is all.
Arguments are like farts; best to let ‘em rip in private.
When I was in elementary school, I was at a friend’s house and her parents started going at it about something the other forgot to get at the grocery. I remember thinking, “Oh my gosh, how will she pick which parent she is going to live with?”
Believe me when I say I never saw my parents fight growing up. Now, notice I didn’t say that my parents didn’t fight. I’m sure they did! How could you not? It’s as inevitable as spandex in a Super Bowl halftime show. But I’m so thankful they chose to hold onto it until after we were all out of the room. I came of age, after all, in the days of “Full House” (RIP, Bob Saget) and “Growing Pains” and “My Two Dads”. Couples didn’t break up. Maybe one died or was mysteriously just missing from the plot, but they didn’t fight or get divorced.
It’s a courtesy I extend to others in my own marriage. Let’s be honest, there’s nothing worse than watching a couple fight. It’s uncomfortable for everyone. I don’t know where to look or whether to offer a sympathetic courtesy laugh or eye roll. What am I doing with my hands? Do I run? No one wants to be courtside for your significant other smackdown. Sit on it for a minute and wait until the room clears out.
As they’ve gotten older, and I have as well, I’ve seen my parents get a little feisty with each other on the rare occasion. Nothing too intense but it would definitely keep the reality show spicy.
Laughin’ is livin’.
When people come around our family for the first time, I am certain they think we’re insane. We love nothing more than to gather around a table and tell the same stories we’ve told a thousand times, maybe with some new spice added, maybe not, and laugh our collective asses off. The more self-deprecating or embarrassing to one of our own, the better the reception.
In this life, there are moments to grieve and to be somber and to sit in silence, but laughter is the magic potion that fills all the spaces in between and makes processing the heavy stuff palatable. Laughter is the salve for the sore spots, and I truly believe it’s been the secret cement for my parents, and my entire family.
“If you can’t laugh at yourself, you’ll never make it,” Mom says.
Marriage is a team sport
In any good partnership, it’s important to 1) know your role, and 2) be prepared to get called up to the majors with little notice.
My mom is the queen of many things, but for the sake of brevity, here are just a few highlights:
Making potato salad, deviled eggs, broccoli salad and any meat-and-potato combo
Gift gifting
Entertaining
Problem solving
Christmas. Full stop.
A few years ago, she slowly started losing mobility. Severe back issues and arthritis made it difficult for her to walk, get up out of chairs or stand upright for long periods of time. As you can imagine, this impacted all of her typical tasks.
Instead of abandoning the meals and traditions our family was accustomed to, my dad came up out of the bullpen and stepped in where he was needed. He started handling the grocery shopping and hauling in the shipments from the North Pole with only mild grumbling.
I guess the point is, there will come a day when your partner gets taken out of the game, be it due to injury (mental or physical), disease or dire straits of a different color. You have to be prepared to get tapped in and take the reins like a boss. Because that’s what it means to really show up for each other.
Love is the only thing that matters.
My dad will tell you he didn’t fall in love with Mom the first time he met her, when they were teenagers. But from the second those feelings changed, his love for her – and hers for him – has been unwavering. It’s one of the greatest truths of my life. As they welcomed each of the three little humans they created and watched our families grow, as adversity roared and subsided, in the face of almost losing each other, their bond never blinked. Not once.
I can’t explain the voodoo of the higher power that pairs people off in this world. I don’t know the magic formula of scent and sight and heart that triggers the chemical reaction of commitment. But I can tell you that the stars aligned for my parents, and we’ve all been blessed to blaze within their constellation.
It’s cliché, I know, but it is a miracle. Two people fell in love and a family was born. A family with three children and 11 grandchildren, 10 gutsy girls and one golden boy. A family tied tightly together in trials and laughter. A family that genuinely enjoys being with each other, because our relationships are an extension of the strong roots planted the day they said, “I do.”
Happy 50th anniversary to my two favorite crazy people. Keep being weird and loving each other so damn much. It’s cute.